An old thread I know.
A energised motor runs warm. With the heating on and cold pipes it should be obvious. If cold then I would check power to the motor before condemning it.
Motors can replaced on their own without the need for a system drain down and refill.
At the moment, there is no reason to suspect the valve, the system is working. But thanks.
On the subject of boiler replacement. The current resident in the flat expressed an interest in replacing it with a Combi, which I do not really want. The existing unit is a Glow-worm 38, which is indeed obsolete, and which does have a standing pilot. Glow-worm suggest that the suitable replacement unit is their Energy regular boiler, 12kW (sufficient for 6 radiators, I have
3). I have not yet delved into the control requirements, but I would discuss them with whomever is selected to do the installation.More later on this subject.
I have got one. The HW tank is on a platform half a metre above the top of the floor mounted boiler so the gravity pipework is quite short. When the Programmer HW setting has the HW function On, the HW tank thermostat decides whether the zone valve is open or closed, and the zone valve microswitch allows the boiler to fire up when the zone valve is open. When the Programmer CH setting has the CH function On the CH room thermostat decides whether the pump runs and if the pump runs then the same circuit allows the boiler to fire up.
The programmer is basically an electric clock that has 2 ons and 2 offs (alternately, on/off/on/off) that I set to the times I want. Then there is a slide switch for each of CH and HW, so for each I can choose between Always On, or On at the first time and Off at the last time (=on all day), or On then Off then On then Off for being on twice a day with Off for the time between, or Off permanently. There is also a frost thermostat wired in which overrides the timeswitch settings to make the CH run whenever the temperature gets down to the frost temperature.
It took a bit of thinking and a large sketch to work out what had to be connected to what, and it all worked after I wired it up. My father and my younger brother were both qualified electricians so from an early age I have always known how to wire things up properly.
I had bought a long strip of screw-onto-the-wire connectors which I mounted in a plastic box, and it made connecting thermostats to the things that functioned when satisfied or unsatisfied very easy. I labelled the sections of connectors with "mains", "HW", "Zone", "CH" before I screwed the lid on the plastic box so that if I ever sell the house, the buyer will have some idea of which wires do what.
Yes, indeed - there will still be a few such systems in existence - just not very many!
Sounds like you've got a C-Plan system, or something very close to one. How long ago did you install it?
Mine is, I never seem to get round to converting it to fully pumped ...
I have a relay in my wiring centre so that both the C/H and DHW outputs of the programmable timer can fire the boiler, without DHW running the C/H pump
I am not sure of the exact date. Mid 1980s I think.
Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Ask the community — no account required