Honeywell boiler wiring

Ok, thanks.

Reply to
Davey
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Yes - it should have a stiff but moveable feel - you are driving a number of gears with a spring return. As you let it go, it should wind back to where it started. (which is why on many there is a notch in the case to latch the leaver in the open position)

Yup its mechanical. The valve body has a small tap spindle that sticks up out of it...

Reply to
John Rumm

It is on a spring return. If the valve is jammed in one position, the lever will move freely. But I can't remember if this is open or closed.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

It moves freely when the valve is open - either powered open or stuck open. When the valve is closed, it can (unless jammed) be opened by operating the lever against the resistance of the spring and gears.

In the OP's case, if the lever is free when all power is removed, the valve is stuck open. If the actuator is removed from the valve, the spring will move it (the actuator, that is, not the valve) to the closed position - and then force would be required on the lever to move it back towards the open position.

Reply to
Roger Mills

Answering John Rumm also:

'Open' does again fit the condition I find. More news when I get to it. Grand Prix tomorrow, which has priority!

Reply to
Davey

In message , Davey writes

Time for bed Florence, said Zebedee

Reply to
hugh

Update. Did some quick electrical checks this morning at the big junction box, which confirmed the current theory, ie valve not being told to open, but switch saying it is open. Shut off power. Gained access to valve (minimal access, of course). Removed cover. Unscrewed visible screw, upper left of actuator plate. Unscrewed invisible screw, bottom right. Could not remove actuator from shaft, something is holding it. Did manage to lift spring-powered lever, which slowly rose under the spring's pull, but did not appear to change anything. Re-assembled in reverse order of disassembly. Returned power to system, confirmed at junction box that nothing had changed. The instructions:

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that the assembly should just pull straight off. What am I missing here? Do I just apply more brute force until it comes off, possibly in several pieces?

Reply to
Davey

That is in theory all you need to do are usually only two screws that go through the base of the electronics box into the brass bit of the valve itself.

They locate in position on a spigot or lug IIRC, so you may need to get a bit more heavy handed to get the valve head to pop off the base!

Sounds like a plan...

As long as you have the two screws out at opposite corners of the base.

Reply to
John Rumm

snip

OK, thanks. Yes, I know they were both loose, and the plate wasn't held by either of them, it was something near the shaft. Well, it doesn't work as it is, so it can't get worse if I break it! I think a big lever will be employed. Then I will find out if the valve itself is stuck or not.

Can I buy a replacement actuator assembly at my local plumbing centre, or should I go mail-order from somewhere? Thanks for help.

Reply to
Davey

Time for bed, said Zebedee

**** off, said Florence

(Jasper Carrot - on Youtube, definitely not work safe)

Reply to
Andy Champ

Has anyone successfully removed a head from an old style valve base with the 4 screw fixing whilst the system has water in it?

I just wondered if general gunge/limescale/gasket/sealant might hold the metal bits in position.

Reply to
The Other Mike

Quite possibly, they are fairly common.

(you can also get just the synchron motor on its own if the gears etc look ok - but quite often they end up shagged anyway)

Only if you either can't get one locally, or its cheaper.

Reply to
John Rumm

Don't think I have ever encountered one...

By rights all the wet stuff should be inside the valve bit. However if it was seeping around the stem, that that would probably mess up the mechanics quite nicely.

Reply to
John Rumm

There are no signs of any water escaping. I just hope that is still the case after I apply additional force! All looked nice and clean, it just would not separate from the valve stem. Busy today, maybe tomorrow.

Thanks for help.

Reply to
Davey

To judge by its reluctance to move, I think it will probably be worth replacing the whole actuator. But, I haven't got it off the valve yet, so I will wait. The local plumber's merchant, who also does retail, is pretty good, so I'll take what I find down to him.

Reply to
Davey

Spray some WD40 into the shaft area under the silver box bit and leave it to soak for a while.

You may find once you get it off and cleaned up and lubricated that yours still works. I had one seize a couple of years back, so took the head off, oiled the shaft and worked it back and fourth with pliers until it felt free. Lubed the gearbox and reassembled. Its been ok since.

Reply to
John Rumm

Pried the works off today, and as soon as it was off, it slowly spring-returned to home position. Good start. The valve shaft has a rotation centred on flats across the pipe direction, which to my industrial mind means 'closed', to about 45 degrees each way from there. The actuator drive goes from flats-across, when saying 'open' to about 45 degrees clockwise when saying 'closed'. Hmmm. Confusing. I checked this several times to confirm it, as it goes against logic. Powering up, the actuator responded as expected to the thermostat. The manual actuator works, too. Re-assembled, and then had to take the wife shopping. Will see if the water temp. is better tomorrow, once we have used a tankful, and will also check the junction box terminals. Progress again, however, I am glad to report.

Reply to
Davey

See my message of 22:41, which probably crossed with yours.

Reply to
Davey

The water is still hot, but now the test points show what they should, so hopefully the hot water is now under the control of the tank 'stat rather than the boiler 'stat. Even though I set it at a little lower temperature than it had been already, I think I need to get back to the boiler 'stat again, and reduce it's setting even more. Thanks for all the help, folks.

Reply to
Davey

Glad its behaving - well done on the fault finding.

No problem.

Reply to
John Rumm

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