Holes for posts

Jul 21, 2014 36 Replies

I have to make a series of holes for fence posts, in ground that's extremely stony: basically it's a mix of clay and shingle. I've manually dug holes in the past and it's very hard going, so I'm wondering about buying or hiring an augur, either powered or hand-operated. Previous discussions on this subject have seen varying recommendations but no-one mentioned ground quite as stone-infested as mine: would a mechanical hole-borer be a worthwhile investment? And if so, petrol or electric? Many thanks.



Bert



You could try a manual one, they are not very expensive, I think mine came from Toolstation, and that might give you an idea on the prospect of success.

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I would certainly hire before buying if I was considering a powered one.

I get the impression that hydraulic ones attached to several tons of tractor will cope with most things.

I've found manual ones - in conjunction with a long spike to dislodge stones - reasonably good. But it's not a quick job.

I fear that you may end up going on a few involuntary roundabout rides if you use a powered one!

A corkscrew on the back of a tractor would do the job well, but that ain't going to be cheap.

Thanks to Newshound and Roger for the replies and advice. Toolstation's "Auger Post Hole Drill" is a very reasonable £15.10, so I'll give that a go first I think, in conjunction with the suggested long spike.

The tractor-based solution is very attractive but a tad impractical in my particular setting, I'm afraid.

Bert

Don't discount a basic post hole digger.

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Very useful tool and as long as your rocks aren't too big, should cope well.

Tim

Should work well in conjunction with an auger - for removing the loose spoil.

Tim and Roger, thanks for that. Toolstation have a similar one, with a link to it from the auger page. I glanced at it but now I'll take a longer look.

Bert

/Should work well in conjunction with an auger - for removing the loose spoil. /q

Shurely pulling up the auger now and then will remove the spoil?

Jim K

In theory. But if the ground is a bit crumbly, resulting in a hole a bit bigger than the auger, some spoil will fall off the edges of the spiral as you lift it out.

/n theory. But if the ground is a bit crumbly, resulting in a hole a bit bigger than the auger, some spoil will fall off the edges of the spiral as you lift it out. /q

Meh, if the ground is as bad as the OP says, I would expect him to be regularly on his knees with arm down the hole scooping out asstd debris, never mind pratting about with a separate tool...

Jim K

It sounds as though the sensible approach might be to get hold of a manual auger and try that first. If the holes do start falling in on themselves then I can add the hole-digger. That's assuming that I can get any joy from my soil with hand-power only...

Bert

I had one of these before I got an auger, and didn't find it particularly effective. Strength (yours), technique, and ground condition will all have an influence. I did find it useful when trying to locate a new spring (in order to decide where drain pipe needed to go), for removing material displaced by the auger and a mattock.

A few of the holes I'm going to dig have to be just too close to a nearby wall to allow the use of a manual auger. The hole-digger (or a mechanical auger) would however both be usable in the space.

Bert

If it is that dry and crumbly then a vacuum cleaner can be useful if it is not too delicate, I found a small vacuum at jumble sale intended to collect soot ,that Ald/ lidli sell for about £35 . At the jumble I paid £5 and can abuse the thing with a clear conscience such as if the soil is dry enough vacuuming holes to plant beans etc in.

G.Harman

That's a technique which I don't think would ever have occurred to me. Thanks.

Bert

I'm pretty sure m Q: Is the handle movable along its length (or welded in) as I need some holes near a stone wall Many thanks A: The handle can be moved from left to right so you should be able to use this close to a wall although it may take a while to make a deep hole.

Around Nottingham they have found vacuum excavation very useful for the works to extend the tram route. It means that they can expose services with less risk of damage.

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Chris

If you are talking about stones bigger than a half bat then you will struggle with the manual digger and will need to break them up. I use a meter long masonry drill in a 5kg sds drill.

Smaller than that and it should only take about 10-15 minutes to do a 3 foot deep hole.

Agreed. I was certainly assuming only stones which would "pass through" the screw.

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