Holes for posts

[Bert Coules]

I have to make a series of holes for fence posts, in ground that's extremely stony: basically it's a mix of clay and shingle. I've manually dug holes in the past and it's very hard going, so I'm wondering about buying or hiring an augur, either powered or hand-operated. Previous discussions on this subject have seen varying recommendations but no-one mentioned ground quite as stone-infested as mine: would a mechanical hole-borer be a worthwhile investment? And if so, petrol or electric? Many thanks.

Bert

[newshound]

You could try a manual one, they are not very expensive, I think mine came from Toolstation, and that might give you an idea on the prospect of success.

I would certainly hire before buying if I was considering a powered one.

I get the impression that hydraulic ones attached to several tons of tractor will cope with most things.

[Roger Mills]

I've found manual ones - in conjunction with a long spike to dislodge stones - reasonably good. But it's not a quick job.

I fear that you may end up going on a few involuntary roundabout rides if you use a powered one!

A corkscrew on the back of a tractor would do the job well, but that ain't going to be cheap.

[Bert Coules]

Thanks to Newshound and Roger for the replies and advice. Toolstation's "Auger Post Hole Drill" is a very reasonable £15.10, so I'll give that a go first I think, in conjunction with the suggested long spike.

The tractor-based solution is very attractive but a tad impractical in my particular setting, I'm afraid.

Bert

[Tim+]

Don't discount a basic post hole digger.

Very useful tool and as long as your rocks aren't too big, should cope well.

Tim

[Roger Mills]

Should work well in conjunction with an auger - for removing the loose spoil.

[Bert Coules]

Tim and Roger, thanks for that. Toolstation have a similar one, with a link to it from the auger page. I glanced at it but now I'll take a longer look.

Bert

[JimK]

/Should work well in conjunction with an auger - for removing the loose spoil. /q

Shurely pulling up the auger now and then will remove the spoil?

Jim K

[Roger Mills]

In theory. But if the ground is a bit crumbly, resulting in a hole a bit bigger than the auger, some spoil will fall off the edges of the spiral as you lift it out.

[JimK]

/n theory. But if the ground is a bit crumbly, resulting in a hole a bit bigger than the auger, some spoil will fall off the edges of the spiral as you lift it out. /q

Meh, if the ground is as bad as the OP says, I would expect him to be regularly on his knees with arm down the hole scooping out asstd debris, never mind pratting about with a separate tool...

Jim K

[Bert Coules]

It sounds as though the sensible approach might be to get hold of a manual auger and try that first. If the holes do start falling in on themselves then I can add the hole-digger. That's assuming that I can get any joy from my soil with hand-power only...

Bert

[newshound]

I had one of these before I got an auger, and didn't find it particularly effective. Strength (yours), technique, and ground condition will all have an influence. I did find it useful when trying to locate a new spring (in order to decide where drain pipe needed to go), for removing material displaced by the auger and a mattock.

[Bert Coules]

A few of the holes I'm going to dig have to be just too close to a nearby wall to allow the use of a manual auger. The hole-digger (or a mechanical auger) would however both be usable in the space.

Bert

[damduck-egg]

If it is that dry and crumbly then a vacuum cleaner can be useful if it is not too delicate, I found a small vacuum at jumble sale intended to collect soot ,that Ald/ lidli sell for about £35 . At the jumble I paid £5 and can abuse the thing with a clear conscience such as if the soil is dry enough vacuuming holes to plant beans etc in.

G.Harman

[Bert Coules]

That's a technique which I don't think would ever have occurred to me. Thanks.

Bert

[newshound]

I'm pretty sure m Q: Is the handle movable along its length (or welded in) as I need some holes near a stone wall Many thanks A: The handle can be moved from left to right so you should be able to use this close to a wall although it may take a while to make a deep hole.

[Chris J Dixon]

Around Nottingham they have found vacuum excavation very useful for the works to extend the tram route. It means that they can expose services with less risk of damage.

Chris

[dennis]

If you are talking about stones bigger than a half bat then you will struggle with the manual digger and will need to break them up. I use a meter long masonry drill in a 5kg sds drill.

Smaller than that and it should only take about 10-15 minutes to do a 3 foot deep hole.

[Bert Coules]

Bert

[newshound]

Agreed. I was certainly assuming only stones which would "pass through" the screw.