Hinges

I used 5mm foamalux on mine. You can glue it to the PIR with gap-filling adhesive. You can, if you are careful, thermoform it into a box shape with a hot air gun, though I didn?t bother.

Foamalux! You learn something every day! Ta:-)

May not be the prettiest but how about these sort of hinges on the front in stead and open towards you.

Maybe you could put hardboard over the front to cover if you don't like the m?

Couldn't you find a longer link to post?

This one works perfectly well - and doesn't cause a line wrap problem:

In message , snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk writes

Got those all over the current (farmhouse) place. Might work if I put a

Maybe I am imagining the situation incorrectly. When closed,I assume the fr ont of the door and the frame surrounding it is flush. The door is then say 100mm thick. If you then put the hinge on the front of the door and the fr ame (i.e. flush) when you open the door towards you the hinge should open 1

In message , snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk writes

Just so.

I may be straining at a Gnat here but I was thinking that moving the pivot point away from the door opening would make the trimming less necessary.

Look up storm hinges (no idea why they're called that), or retrofit hinges for wheelchair access, which move the hinge pins out in front of the architrave, so a 90 degree open door is not using up any of the doorframe width.

In message , Andrew Gabriel writes

OK chaps. Enough ideas for now. I may be over thinking the problem:-) Moving the hinge pin further into the room helps with architrave issues but may be resisted on the grounds of grand children safety.

Today's problem is screwing 11 sheets of 8x4 ply to the floor and not finding the heating pipe runs spaced at 200mm!