having trouble finding correct stain

I am having trouble identifying the correct stain for a new window, I would say it's fairly close to Ronseal's antique pine below

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it appears from Ronseal's latest leaflet and evident from the small tin I have bought that they have changed their antique pine to a much paler/yellower colour (fortunately the purpose of this post they have not updated their website yet).

The windows have a slight orangey tinge in direct sunlight/artificial light. I did match the windows inside to a a piece of pine I stained with golden cedar but have since discovered after staining the new hardwood windows that this is way to orangey.

Is anyone familiar with the colours being using in the build trade at the moment which resemble the antique pine above.

Reply to
new to diy
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Any advice greatly appreciated.

Reply to
new to diy

colored paint.

If you want to use it, ask an oik at B&Q.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

On my monitor I'd say you need a thinned down version of the teak shade to avoid the orange. External stains are usually based on iron oxides which come in yellow, red, and black. Getting a decent brown from such a limited palette is impossible.

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Stuart, I think you may be on to something. Looking at the interior of my existing windows, I am beginning to think the orangey/warm appearance may be a result of the yellowish hardwood beneath, as there is only a light coat on stain on the interior. I guess I need to try some stains out on some hardwood (instead of the pine I have been using), where could I get some hardwood the same as what casement windows come in, any idea what wood this is? Thanks again.

Reply to
new to diy

Most trade people use the Sikkens range as this is far more durable.

If you get hold of the Sikkens colour charts, you can call their help desk and they will send you free match pot sized samples to identify the colour you want.

From your description a light oak stain would probably be what you are after. Remember all wood stains (and the wood itself) darkens with time, if you start off dark it many end up too dark.

Rick

Reply to
Rick Hughes

Excellent, thanks Rick, that's what I wanted to find out, what the trade use.

Reply to
new to diy

Turning into a major project by the sound of it:-) Hardwood isn't cheap, and you'll drive yourself mad trying to match colours and timbers at the same time. I'd go for the coldest of the paler colours (which looks like the teak to me) and tosh it on to everything you want to have a similar look. As I say, there are no browns in this area, only oranges, dark oranges, and dirty black oranges.

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Sikkens products are very good ... I buy mine form Local Crown Decorating Centre ... or Jewsons.

Sikkens technical help line is excellent.

Rick

Reply to
Rick Hughes

Seconded for Sikkens. I've had good results using Sikkens Cetol HLS Teak on everything from decking to shelves.

A couple of things that I found:

a) If using it out of the tin the bit at the bottom can get a bit thicker and so give a darker coat. So it may be best to spoon out what you need into another tin to minimise this.

b) Any rough areas or fuzz on the wood will attract more pigment and so look more noticable. So it's best to sand everything really smooth, or even scrape the wood carefully with a razor sharp scraper (the scraper will remove sanding fuzz quite easily).

To get a good match I'd try varying the number of coats, using different coats of different colours, or even mixing small samples of different colours together. Lots of samples on similar wood would be the way to go.

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

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