Looks as though it may be useful for some modding and repairing of tools
-- rbel
hot glue covers most of the applications cheaper and better....
I got a couple of small sachets free at the local Maker Faire here last year, and haven't yet used them ...
J^n
Yes. I used it to repair a lead on a pair of earphones that was coming loos= e. It worked fine. Holding lead to phono pin where it was starting to come= adrift and is flexible. I'm well pleased with it as the headphones would h= ave been toast in no time without a repair and the only alternative I could= think of was some kind of tape which would not be near as effective.
Might not be the prettiest repair but so what if it works.
Nonsense !
You don't appear to have understood the advantages of it. Hot melt glue ca= nt be moulded into shape, doesn't adhere well to all surfaces, is prone to = release, becomes extremely brittle, there is just no comparison.
be moulded into shape, doesn't adhere well to all surfaces, is prone to release, becomes extremely brittle, there is just no comparison. You asppear not to have actually used modern hot melt glue at all.
I have a stick here. I can bend it in my fingers.
Brittle it aint.
I have a stick here. I can bend it in my fingers.
Brittle it aint.
Not in its un melted form maybe, but once melted it becomes brittle and cannot be bent
There are several different hot glues available.
It worked fine. Holding lead to phono pin where it was starting to come adrift and is flexible. I'm well pleased with it as the headphones would have been toast in no time without a repair and the only alternative I could think of was some kind of tape which would not be near as effective.
Looks like a "must have" for anyone with Apple kit. The iPad power lead is failing in just this way. And you can get it in black or white!
No. One melted it goes softer and once its unmelted its just as hard as it ever was or wasn't.
Yiu can tear it apart and its sill flexible.
You need to know which hot melt sticks are being used. I have some wood glue sticks that go hard and stay hard when cool.
Others I have stay flexible when cooled.
You choose the best for the job.
Self Amalgamting tape would be and for a lot less cash. About a fiver for a 10m roll that doesn't have a 6 month shelf life. Possibly not quite as easy to apply though.
My first guess is its silcone plus clay, and not hard to make.
NT
I'm inclined to agree. There's a proper challenge for DIY then, given how relatively cheap silicone is in cartridges, what's the best way to make fake sugru?
So how exactly would you make something from it, never mind mould it around= a cable connection without burning your fingers? Once exuded it goes off f= airly quick (Yes I know there are varieties with varying set times). That's= the essence of hot melt. It sets quickly and thats one of its main advanta= ges.
It bears no relation to Sugru.
I have self amalgamating tape and while it is very useful it would not add strength to the repair the same as Sugru IMHO
There are people here arguing about the merits and demerits of a product they apparently have never actually used.
Keep up with the thread drift, SA tape doesn't get hot... B-)
And I see google groups is messing up usenet again. Why is it puting in two lines of quote marks for each single line in the orginal message?
Buy the real stuff in gallon cans from Bentley, then seal it into one- use packages.
Love it, although it is pricey. Mostly in the "Colman's Mustard" way too - it's not the amount you use that you pay for, it's the amount left in the package.
I'm using it for repairing cables and strain relief boots. Better than heatshrink or self-amalg. Much better than gluegun, as it's stickier and can be moulded to shape. Gluegun strings and blobs so much that you're always trimming it afterwards. I've moulded up a lot of plugs and sockets with it too, where I've had suitable pins, a housing and a mating socket, but the real plug would have cost =A310+ each. Good for RC battery packs connectors too.
I prefer it to Polymorph (hot water temp thermoplastic) for moulding grips and handles. It's particularly good as soft gripper pads over robot hand components that have come from a 3D printer in hard ABS.
Excellent tip. I've done that occasionally with epoxy but this sounds much better. Presumably you use something like a bit of clingfilm or aluminium foil to stop it sticking to the socket?
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