I planned on flush wall mounting Klik 6A sockets - lights, smoke/heat, em-light.
Ceiling Rose KLIK will not seal against a conduit box (they wobble), requiring either a deeper sunk box using plaster as the mating surface or a surface mount pattress. AX KLIK however are a 1G faceplate so fit standard backboxes.
It just occurred to me that Klik lacks shuttered pins - so industrial/ commercial only?
Table lamp BS546 sockets DO have shuttered sockets conversely - so domestic legal.
I choose to deliberately ignore in this case (the rule predates Klik). It's quite difficult to make contact by sticking something in the slots - it has to be very pointed and thin, or a bare wire.
I use these for kitchen lighting where the lights are attached to the kitchen wall units, and you run a flex back to a Klik wall plate, but you don't expect to be frequently plugging and unplugging them (e.g. only if you are taking down the kitchen units). You can pre-wire the cupboards before putting them up, and then simply plug them in. The outlets are on the walls just above and just below the wall units. I always switch the above outlets (general lighting) separately from the below outlets (task lighting).
Yes, they are if shuttered. (BS546 does not require them to be shuttered though, so you may find unshuttered ones too.) I have used 2 Amp BS546 for table lights switched from the door in my living room. These feel more natural for lights which people might move around, where the release mechanism of the klik plugs is going to be unfamiliar to many.
They work great - easy to change lights.
Currently I have a vertical 2G-47mm box with two MK grid cord-outlets for lights & smoke.
I will add a Klik Architrave w/backbox above it. The backbox will need side-entry, I suspect most do not, so it will be hole-punch & grommet time. The ceiling will have to come down at some point so it makes it *really* easy to unplug/refit/plug without fighting screw terminals.
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The holes in architrave back boxes are smaller than normal anyway. I never have any grommets which fit, so I end up cutting a piece out of a 20mm grommet to make it smaller, but still slightly too big so it's a tight fit and won't pop out.
There's a completely flush wall mounting variant which is designed to mate with a plug built into the back of a wall light, which also supports the light. I thought that was a smart idea, but I've never seen any wall lights with the plug built in. I looked at modifying a sconce uplight I was planning on using to work this way, but the rear didn't have enough space.
It is a pity.
Consider how many people buy lights, then meet The Loop In Ceiling Rose. Klik would eliminate problems, it might even make Ikea light fittings usable... ok, perhaps not.
I think Klik could get a "above 2m shuttered outlet is not a necessity for 6A fittings with RCD protection", just needs a Stakeholder White Paper.
The loop in ceiling rose is just a pain. When I wired my house, I wired everything to junction boxes, with just a single drop of twin and earth to each ceiling rose - so much easier when I've wanted to change to different light fittings which don't require a traditional rose.
SteveW
Heh, I know the feeling.
You can avoid the junction boxes via Loop In Switch.
I sunk a 2G backbox in a suitable place on each floor with new supply cable, Wago Lever connectors ready. Each room has been progressively relaid with oval conduit, but existing wires left in place (except for
3c+e in hall). Someday I can just run LNE from the 2G backbox to each room's light switch via oval & back up via oval to the light fitting.Easy migration, easy central testing and almost idiot proof re simple LNE.
Almost - still have to do two drops, perhaps "this winter" :-)
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