"Grouting" between existing patio slabs: how to avoid dry powdery mortar Featured

May 30, 2021 Last reply: 5 years ago 25 Replies

best time is when its about half as hot as it gets, and is damp. so cool and damp. cement will set, slowly, wont get washed away by rain, and slabs wont expand as hot. don't want overnight frosts that will destroy it before its sets either

Thanks, as I normally or have done it either spring time or maybe September when needed.

When I have looked up what mix and how much water, all I found was anything between 4:1 and 3:1, and just enough water so it clags or holds in your hand. Then trowel it in the gaps, and tamping it down as I go along. I also us a 'iron' to smooth each joint, then lightly water afterwards, then leave it dry off

It is possible that the bag had been in store for awhile and had a small hole or other damage which has allowed the cement fines to start to set but without turning the whole lot hard. It's possible instore staff had noticed some harness and bashed it to break up any fine lumps. This is never going to be any use for a decent mortar.

Also, when mixed and a proper admix used it should give a nice 'fatty' mortar. If it doesn't, don't use it. If the soil is liable to 'heave' in cold weather, a lime-based mortar might be better but this needs weather protection while it achieves full strngth.

Also possible that the whole batch was poorly mixed by the store supplier and has less cement than it should.

For grouting slabs, it must be protected from frost for at least

7 days.

I have used this stuff just to seal up a mowing strip, it is easy peasie to use and gives a good hard wearing finish and importantly no staining.

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Richard

Could it be that the product is not properly mixed in the bag?

Of course that's the problem. But it takes 30 armchair experts to completely confuse the OP

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