In this weather you should see some yellowing of the growing points
within two weeks of application and a complete kill after a month. It is
a slow acting translocating weedkiller that does roots as well as top
growth. If you see an immediate effect you used it too strong!
If it is wilderness that you are reclaiming the best value for money is
leave it all until tinder dry. Make a firebreak around the edges and
then flash burn it to see off most of the weed seeds. The black scorched
earth makes it much easier to spot weed any green shoots.
Docks and grass about a fortnight if the weather is dry, brambles about a
month, elder bushes a couple of months depending on size. Bracken around
six weeks to two months it seems ver resistant to glyphosate and needs
several treatments possibly at monthly intervals. Also I would bump up the
concentration by 25-30% for elder and bracken. ie Instead of 120-150 ml of
360g/l concentrate per five litres use 150-200 ml.
If you're buying it pre-diluted it could take ages and may not work - they
dilute it to a ridiculous extent.
If the elder is large and has a significant trunk use the techniques
described here previously of hashing the bark to get the glyphosate past
the waterproof bark or drill holes into the trunk and top up with
Bracken is another plant like nettles, buttercup, etc, that has
natural defences against sprays - deep resilient roots, IIRC
interconnecting, moderately waxy leaf surface, etc. The preferred
spray against bracken used to be Asulox, which does work, if rather
slowly over several seasons, but things may have moved on since then.
Certainly with bracken you need to hit it hard and above all
consistently, it's no good expecting one spray to do the trick. You
have to remember too that it dies back completely every year, so
there's probably not much point in spraying it too late in the season.
AFAICR, I used to spray twice with Asulox, once quite early in the
season when the new shoots were 15-30cm above ground, again some time
later, probably about mid-summer, but I can't now remember the precise
recommendations for best results.
And you need to keep doing it every year, because it can take several
years to exhaust the plants' systems and achieve complete kill.
When young and fit, I used to pull it out as well, but it's a hard
pull, and I'd probably struggle to do it now. And again, you have to
keep at it consistently, it's no good just having a go when you feel
On Tue, 13 Aug 2013 09:13:30 +0000 (UTC), Steve Firth
Please always reply to ng as the email in this post's
On Monday, 12 August 2013 11:52:46 UTC+2, Windmill wrote:
Seems to vary enormously. About 10 years ago, I would use Roundup against b
road leaf weeds on a hot day and see them visibly start to wilt within 2hrs
at most and they'd be flat out dead in a couple of days. Try using today's
Roundup formulation, however, and you'll be lucky to achieve any knockdown
I have give up with Roundup and Weedol. I buy some cheap stuff from Wilko i
n sachets that is supposed to be watered down, but I apply it neat. Still t
akes about 2 weeks to kill the weeds off, though.
On 13/08/2013 10:25, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Monsanto a couple of years back were selling something they called
"fast" Roundup that was more than just glyphosate. It made home users
aware that something was going on within a couple of days.
The way that glyphosate works by inhibiting certain chemical pathways
means that it takes a week or more before the photosynthetic byproducts
build up to levels that are toxic to the plant. The growing point is
usually affected first - nettles turn a nice shade of yellow as it takes
effect and grass a characteristic bronze as it expires.
Sounds like a major failure to RTFM is causing to your problems.
Any generic glyphosate product will do the job apart from on a handful
of Roundup Ready(TM) volunteer weeds, waxy holly and ivy and curiously
buttercup which is surprisingly resistant to the stuff.
On Tuesday, 13 August 2013 11:34:16 UTC+2, Martin Brown wrote:
No way. The formulation has definitely changed for the worse. Perhaps it only works effectively on Monsanto's genetically-engineered weeds. ;)
On Tue, 13 Aug 2013 03:24:07 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com
The branded stuff aka Roundup, Weedol just has less of the active
ingredient (glyphostae) that the generics, they may have some
surficants to aid penetration though.
I'd just get the highest concentration I could, dilute if required
and bruise the target plant a bit. It does take a while to act, some
plants are quicker than others and some tough buggers can take more
than one application. Just be patient, it does not produce an instant
knockdown. Indeed by the way it works you don't want an instant
Read somewhere that Roundup-resistant weeds are now a problem. And that
the patent expired fairly recently. And that there is now something
newer than glyphosate which does work on the resistant weeds.
Suspicious persons no doubt wonder if the Roundup-resistant weeds were
specially bred or modified!
Windmill, snipped-for-privacy@NoneHome.com Use t m i l l
J.R.R. Tolkien:- @ S c o t s h o m e . c o m
wait two weeks really for a tough plant.
elder and brambles are the worst.
grass and docks a few days should see em yellow
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