My wife's Mazda MX5 hard top had the door seals replaced a year ago. They are meant to grip onto a steel rib. They didn't fit all that well when I did the job and now they are tending to drop off fairly frequently. Do I use ordinary silicone to glue them on or is there some specific silicone glue?
Thanks Rob
I would try an acrylic like decorators caulk/. Easy to remove if it dioesnt work and its less messy.
And it's absolutely the wrong compound to use for this application.
Something like this
However, as we all know, you know so much about everything that your head is not big enough to contain your brain, which is why most of your thoughts dribble out of your arse.
Yes of course it did, and the moon is made of green cheese.
There may be life forms out there thicker than you, but if there are, science hasn't discovered them yet.
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember robgraham saying something like:
For many automotive applications, Sikaflex tend to have the adhesive of choice.
A good choice, Sikaflex is a polyurethane adhesive/sealant and will stand up well to the conditions encountered by a vehicle. Silicon sealant should also work well and has the advantage that it can be cleaned from bodywork with white spirit (or tar remover) without damaging paintwork.
A polyurethane adhesive such as Gorilla glue should work but it foams and is IMO unsuitable for vehicle applications. Sikaflex doesn't foam and stays where it is put.
Water-based domestic acrylic sealant is the choice of fools.
I'd found Evostick Serious excellent on a variety of materials around the car that others barf at. Think it is also a polyurethane glue - but easily available from your local shed.
I'd agree there. Wouldn't even think of trying it.
If you want just enough adhesion to hold a rubber strip in place and the ability to not leave smears of impossible to remove glue everywhere else, its an ideal choice.
What is needed is more mastic than glue in this case. Just enough to stop it all falling off.
If you want serious adhesion a contact adhesive like evostkik works well. But you have no shuffling time.
Got to agree. I've used Sikaflex 221 for fixing skinned rubber soft top seals to metal before. If the surface is properly cleaned a degreased then the seal fails before the joint.
The butyl tape that cpc sell for sealing loudspeaker drivers to cabinets is good for temporary attachment at the start of a run and on the corners as it stops the seal sliding in the groove which can sometimes happen with a semi liquid mastic.
It's a door seal which will have considerable pressure on it.
Nothing like good enough.
Try looking at Evostick Serious. It's not a contact adhesive.
Thus ensuring you will never be able to cleanly remove the failed seal ever again.
Oh? so you are the OP are you?
And know what he wants better than he does?
Most of these 'rubber in groove or groove in rubber' things are designed to not need glue at all.
They normally need just a tack to stop them falling out, as by and large when closed, they are under pressure anyway.
Using a low tack sealer works to (just) hold them in place, but not enough so they cant be ever removed again.
I often use hot glue in cases like that. It will glue plastic to things, but only just enough ..you can peel it off the plastic again. Acrylics are good, but silicone is a bugger. Very messy.
No - but lots of experience sticking such things.
Well, he didn't say the car was only used on fine days, so I'd not recommend a non waterproof glue - unlike some. ;-)
So how do you prevent water siphoning underneath?
Usually sideways pressure.
Most of the common hot glues - as in sticks - ain't waterproof either.
Have you got a cite for that Dave, I'm interested in learning more.
Dave
There used to be an expert on this group many moons ago, was it Johan? Haven't seen any posts for a long time, but there's the WIKI John
The same way any compressed rubber seal works. By filling all the space with rubber.
Even Drivel doesn't use silicone on his pushfits.
I don't see why modern hot glues would be water soluble. The old glue pot glues were not, agreed. But they have come on as little bit since then.
I just tried licking the ones on my desk here. Not water soluble.
I've tried them for sticking trim *inside* a car and they've failed after a period. Insides of cars tend to get damp in winter.
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