I originally got a UPS because we suffered from 'brownouts' at night which locked up my, then, modem. There have been the occasional loss of mains since then and both my Acer Windows machine and my ARMX6 ( RISC OS) have happily carried on working. an APC UPS
That's what they are designed to do and there is a cycle or two of stored energy in the PSU anyway.
Or simply self discharged. Did you leave it powered up for a day or two, it might have recovered. If not the batteries can normally be replaced.
Judging by the clicks and clunks my small APC unit makes on switching to battery or voltage reduction/boost mode it's simple relays. The short disturbance isn't a problem.
Most cheap UPS's are "off line" in that the power normaly goes straight through, possibly with some boost or buck done by tap switching on the invertor transformer. The invertor electronics is probably running all the time but not used, the battery is of course maintained.
Other UPS's are "on line". The power out is from the batteries and invertor at all times and is thus closely regulated and "clean". The battery "charger" has to be able to provide the full load of the UPs and charge the battery at suitably high rate to restore the output in a sensible time after it has shut down for low battery. Ideally it also needs to switch to a "maintenance mode" when the battery is charged.
Your over thinking this, at least for the small "domestic" UPS's of a few kVA. Larger ones, 10's to 1,000's of kVA are a different kettle of fish all together. B-) The glitch caused by a break before make relay is not big enough to worry yer average PC or most other kit. If kit is that sensitive normal glitches on the raw mains would be giving it problems.
For small UP's over thinking again B-)
Yep if that was the "Smart" variation it would be similar as the one I have. I say similar as mine was manfactured 11/03/98 (is that March or November I wonder?). 2 x 7 AHr 12 V SLAs easy to replace. It's on it's 4 or 5th set as until I "got at it" it would cook the batteries in around 4 years. Current set were fitted after I "got at it" in Mar
14 and are still good.
Some freezers have large sealed "ice blocks" already. The old fridge/freezer had two about 9 x 15 x 1 inches(*). The up right freezer has one about 15 x 5 x 1 inches, along with a few standard cool box ones. The small cheapo chest freezer doesn't but then it is a "basics" model... The replacement but frost free fridge freezer doesn't but I guess it could be buried away inside somewhere or as it's a newer device has better insulation and doesn't need the extra help to meet the required "without power cold time".
(*) They didn't go to the fridge/freezer dump...
As would I, yet you often see these things out in all weathers completely unprotected, much like a motorcycle engine or British Seagull outboard motor. ;-)
And isn't likely to be indoors ...
Bend over Sir ...
Yeah. I've seen the smaller ones on campsites and when only lightly loaded seem to be very very quiet indeed.
Mate gave me the open frame Honda 3kW because he wasn't allowed to use them around schools when the kids were there (noise distraction) when working on their drains.
Stack of straw bales between you and it?
IO think this was the point of the 4 sloped side panels, the sound was reflected down and into the ground, not bouncing about inside a parallel sided enclosure.
My mate used to have his large (3 phase) twin cyl compressor in the garage itself but you couldn't talk in there when it was running. Then we moved it next door into a small side building .... ah the peace ... ;-)
No, true.
Cheers, T i m
chest freezers are better design for retaining the cold, I saw some Liebherr models saying 64 hours without power ...
Is that the one at the top of the stairs on the right hand side?
You could add a nice thick foil faced celotex jacket to fit over the freezer - I have done that as I have a 2nd freezer in the garage.
That's about 2 x 2.2 litres for the larger ones and 1.2 litres for the smaller. The problem is that they might contain only gelled water, so they would operate at about 0 degC, not quite what the OP was looking for as not being very useful for a freezer, but could be glycol-based and operate at some indeterminate temperature that may or may not be appropriate.
With the DIY approach I suggested you can within limits set your own 'temperature control' rather than rely on something indeterminate.
Might be an idea for the OP to check the specs for his freezer, it could save his faffing about with a generator...
LOL
Just noting that mine is a 650W Honda 4 stroke.
Also noting that I probably need to check that it can run the freezer including starting the compressor before I get too heavily into it.
Could end up looking at a 12V battery or two which act as a UPS through an inverter, giving peak power when needed, and being charged by the genny all the time (or as required).
Life is never easy.
Cheers
Dave R
I am taking a very pessimistic view of the worst case scenario for Brexit.
This includes major interruptions to mains power supplies.
Very unlikely, but once you start asking the question, and think "hang on, I have a small generator" then provision to run the generator follows naturally.
Cheers
Dave R
erm...your original post was a requirement for /short/ power outages!
I'm not sure that Brexit time-scales imply 'short'...
I doubt if a 650W generator or anything other than a professional grade hi surge current server rack UPS would be able to power a compressor motor. The peak current surge to start is very high for a few cycles.
For selected values of "short" :-)
Cheers
Dave R
Never tried my small 4-stroke "inverter" generator (Machine Mart "honda" clone) on a fridge or freezer, but it certainly copes better with inductive loads (angle grinder, circular saw) than its little two-stroke predecessor.
That's why ordinary UPSs all insist they can't be used with laser printers - they are unhappy with even very brief over-current events when running on the inverter.
Interestingly, my workshop (mainly electronics) is on a ring circuit shared with just one other (mostly unused) room. It has a UPS feeding two or three computers most of the time.
The laser printer (a consumer grade colour Samsung) is on the ring circuit, but not of course on the APC Smart-UPS.
Despite the ring circuit being correctly wired and being quite short, and there being little load on it...when I switch on the laser printer, the UPS shifts taps to compensate for the voltage drop - it is clearly audible.
My 2 kVA diesel set just changes exhaust note a tiny bit when a fridge freezer kicks in. Rather more of a change in not if you drop a
2 kW fan heater on to it, no noticable speed chnage. B-)events
UPS's don't like CRT monitors from powered down either. OK if already up and in standby though. Degausing coil is a hefty load for a second or so...
That sort of surprises me, there will be an inrush as the filter capacitor and PSU capacitors charge but wouldn't expect that to be greatly different to a PC. Think I'd be looking to see if the UPS is a bit "sensitive" or what the volt drop drop is on that ring when loaded. May be indicating a slightly iffy joint somewhere.
Laser printers are a brutal load to get the fuser element that melts the toner onto the paper up to temperature quickly is a brief but very high surge current from cold. Easily enough to trip a UPS out.
Inkjet printers are fine though.
Indeed. Which is why I didn't put it on the UPS! The UPS still complained.
Brexit should reduce power poutages as we will no longer be bound to the renewable obligation, Of course that will need a PM who isn't shagging an eco bunny, but that may come to pass, yet.
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