Garage floor

Following the advice of a couple of weeks ago, the garage ceiling has been plasterboarded, a integrated loft hatch/ladder[1] installed for access to the roof space, lighting done and I'm now sealing the concrete floor.
I'm planning on battening the wall, insulating and plasterboarding - how low to the floor should the battens go if I was leaving the floor sealed and not adding anything else like tiles etc? Leave a gap or doesn't it matter?
And...
I fancy doing something with the floor - I like the look of some of the tiles but they cost an arm and a leg, it's about 36m2. The floor needs to bear heavy weights (motorbikes for now but possibly car as well) and there can't be too much of a ramp from the drive as I need to be able to push the bikes in (backwards usually) and I'm a bit of a wimp. Ideas?
Still not really planned how far I'm going with this, I'll certainly plasterboard the walls and have it all plastered, if I can get a nice tile effect floor that would be great. After that I suppose I could put all the garagey stuff in the roof, the garden stuff will go into outdoor storage and that leaves me a pretty good space for a sort of games room.
It's all been relatively cheap so far and doing the ceiling has had a marked positive affect on lighting effectiveness and perception of the garage space.
[1] Has anybody bought and fitted one of these from Wickes/B&Q? - the instructions on how/where to fit the springs are missing. Works ok without but...
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Mike Buckley
RD350LC2
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On 09/10/2010 17:44, Mike Buckley wrote:

I used this stuff:
http://www.dynotile.co.uk /
on my garage floor a few years ago. Has lasted well and I park two cars on it.
Not cheap though, and you need to allow for expansion if it gets hot (i.e. in direct sunlight).
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"Mike Buckley" wrote snip............

Nothing positive, but I'd be wary of laying a floor with high slipperiness factor if you are going to push m-bikes around on it (possibly with wet tyres).
Phil
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