How to fix this flashing ?

[Nick Leverton]

I have a problem with some flashing which has come off, as seen at

. This roof is where a two storey extension wall joins onto a sloping roof above a single storey extension. Don't ask me why the previous owners but two did this, there is much that is illogical or bodged about this house !

As far as I recall, the flashing used to be vaguely held in place by a fillet of mortar along a groove in the rendering. As the pic shows, since this summer's storms the nearer half of the flashing, the fillet and indeed certain portions of the render are no longer doing anything useful. Presumably I'd need to re-do the missing render with some type of cement mix ? How can I fix the flashing so that it is weatherproof and doesn't come off again ?

The other problem for me is that this is very awkward to reach. Although it's not far off the ground, only about 10', the near corner shown in that pic is about 4' back from the edge of the roof (the roof has a 4' overhang beyond the building line) and the damaged area extends about 4' further back from that. I cannot reach it with a ladder, so I guess I'd have to use a tower or scaffold. I've no experience of either though so I don't know how to deal with this sort of overhang, and I'd appreciate any advice anyone can give.

Thankyou

Nick

[tony sayer]

In article , Nick Leverton scribeth thus

If its that awkward to get to, and your not that happy working up there perhaps a quote from a roofer might not be that bad an idea?..

After the price of hiring a tower system etc?..

[Dave Liquorice]

Should be back into a grove in the brick work and either fixed in place with lead wedges or purpose make clips. The the render bought down onto te top of the flashing but no further. Also looks as if the corner of the apron is also split.

Or a roof ladder if the top can be hooked over the ridge above, it doesn't look as if that is possible though. So a scaffold of some sort up and over onto the roof is required. I suspect when you get up close the higher up section of flashing is only there by the skin of its teeth. There is certainly a crack in the rendering and a bit missing right at the top.

The saw tooth pattern in the rendering that has been revealed indicates that the orginal soakers where cut into the brick work, as they should be. The simple folded up and overlapped that exists is OK but not ideal.

[stuart noble]

I think I'd try Gripfil. Can't quite visualise the access problem but, if the ladder is securely lashed, sofa cushions are handy for moving up the roof without standing up.

[fred]

In article , Nick Leverton writes

First, access:

I see a shadow from something on the left so I assume that you can't get a roof ladder in there.

An access tower is avoidable and may not make the situation any better.

You'll need some sort of board to spread the load on the slates (12mm mdf sheet is cheap and will do fine), then fix battens to that across the slope with screws from the back. Drill a couple of holes through the board at the top say 2" in and tie _separate_ lengths of 10mm polyprop rope through each hole.

Throw rope over roof, arranging it through that gap at the top and tighten after lifting the spreader board into place. Tie each length tightly to something immovable (say in through one window, out through another, or out a door). Do your best to take up any elasticity in the rope by pre-tensioning.

You now have a stable working platform. It will settle a bit as you climb onto it but you can live with this.

Second, the repair:

It's really not been done that badly and it wont take much to put it back in order. Yes, the lead should be wedged in but judicious use of a combined waterproof adhesive/sealant should work well too with a bit of wedging to keep it in place while it all sets.

Remove loose mortar, fill slot with chosen goop, apply further goop by dot and dab (not continuous bead) to sound mortar and existing vertical lead surfaces then replace lead in slot and dress to shape. Tap wedges of lead into slot to retain until goop is set.

My chosen goop is currently Plumbers' Gold, expensive but a good combined waterproof sealant and adhesive, also paintable and available in clear:

[Dave Liquorice]

Not a bad idae but I think I'd put some battens across the board to provide foot and bum holds so you don't slide off.

Looking at the image I think the lead has ripped along the fold. So the whole piece may well need replacing. I guess you could bodge it by taking it off, triming any of the orginal tonge off and refolding to go into the slot. That is reducing the distance that wind driven rain has to go before overtoping the soakers though, don't under estimate the abilty of wind to drive rain up hill.

[fred]

" . . . then fix battens to that across the slope with screws from the back." :-)

Hmmn, could be, yes, new bit required then but not expensive and will last better if there's a history of wind damage. The tongue could be bent on the ground for such a simple shape. The goop to the existing vertical lead should help stop it flapping in future.

[Dave Liquorice]

150mm x 3m code 4 will be something over =A320, probably nearer =A330. Not sure that 150mm would be wide enough. 240mm is the next width, =A330 to =A340 for 3m. Double those prices in a shed...

Shouldn't need goop. Having said that if the bottom end where is turns onto the face of the chimney I might be tempted to put a blob there to hold it in place, particulary if the prevailing wind is into that gap.

[Lobster]

Isn't 'gloop' the technical term? Just wondered... ;-)

[george [dicegeorge]]

I went to buy a roll of lead from Leominster Building Supplies but it was £140, so I didn't!

Hope to hear more about this project and see photos cos I'm doing similar but simpler things before winter.

[g]

[fred]

It's definitely goop (TM), Gloop was an overweight child in Wonka chocolate story