Garage Door Help Update

Hi all. Right, I thought I'd cracked the problem. I cleaned all the grease off the guides/rollers and tracks. While I had one of the tracks off, I tried the door. I noticed that there was a lot of movement between the frame and guide while the door was shut. From half way upwards, there seems a hell of a lot of pressure between the roller and frame. That would make sense why the door feels 'sticky' from half way upwards. I tried packing the spring mounting bracket out to bring them away from the frame. While the door feels a little better, the tightness is still there. The rollers on the guides feels free and run well in the tracks. Am I looking at a problem that really isn't there? I can't imagine the motor on the door opener lasting long if it was fitted while the door is still sticky. Cheers. Brad

Reply to
BRAD
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Mine (now replaced) had a habit of the steel ropes rubbing against the frame. It was difficult to spot because it was well clear when the door was closed and hidden by the door when partially open. The metal frame would distort as the door went up.

If it is a canopy type up and over, with just the vertical tracks - a normal door opener fixed to and pulling on the top centre of the door will simply not work. The work as far as 3/4 open - at which point pulling back will not make the door open any further.

Hence the reason why I changed the entire door for a new automatic roller door.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

I had a canopy door and I managed to clear my sticking sufficiently for a motor to work it. Cannot remember whether it needed any special adaptors to get leverage for the last few inches but it certainly put a lot of force through the well constructed garage. It was however dangerous because with a canopy on vertical runners as soon as the motor moved to push the door closed the bottom of the door descended the first 18 inches very quickly indeed. Once I accidentally caught the the over-sensitive strip ion the remote control and the door opened and the initial high speed drop felled me. If safety cut outs that stop the door descending when someone is in the doorway are not provided I suggest you order some. Such safety equipment should be provided as standard. I did get compensation from Wickes insurers.

Reply to
Invisible Man

No problem with that aspect of the door. I have a Bow Arm Converter made by the same manufacurer of the door opener. This is made especially for canopy doors. Thanks Brad

Reply to
BRAD

Safety cut-outs are already provided with the opener. Thanks Brad.

Reply to
BRAD

BRAD was thinking very hard :

I'm not sure the bow arm will help you, if yours has just the vertical tracks. The only way to make it work properly would be by pulling up and down on the pivot point rollers.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

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