It's the temperature/expansion difference that will free it off. You need the application of strong heat to the circumferential parts. If the whole thing is warmed, there's no expansion difference so it's less likely to work. So you want something like a gas torch applied to the bit that needs to be made bigger.
Perhaps immersing it in oil, heating up to about 150C (don't set fire to the oil!) for a while then letting it cool might force in oil. If that doesn't work then try immersing just the (cold) main lump in hot oil so that there's differential expansion.
Well the arrow heads aren't on the ends of the rods...
WD40 isn't very good, Plusgas is in a different league. Squirt all the joints with Plusgas and go a way for a day or two (or diesel or ATF).
Then tap the rods alternatly and from either end with something that ensures all the impact hits the rod only. Thinking that you may be able to free up the much smaller areas between rods and main casting than the rods and cross slide.
What would drive the main screw? Can you get at that and perhaps free that off an use it to stress either it to rods joint or rods to main casting by jaming it somehow?
Now sorted, many hundreds of taps with a hammer, WD40, oil, wooden wedges, clamps, vice, heat gun....but got there in the end.
Just one more piece to free, the jaws on the chuck (image 2)
They're called *gib screws* IIRC. They bear against a shim located against one of the V grooves to help eliminate lateral movement/backlash in the cross slide.
While electroplating is a black art, "electrolytic rust removal" isn't.
Gives excellent results, pretty simple, doesn't break anything* -- but it will not remove rust in inaccessible spots, the current has to "see" the surface...
Thomas Prufer
Wrong: it is called "electrolytic rust removal" for a reason.
Thomas Prufer
Leave it to soak in a can of diesel for a week.
Mike
ATF alone also works, just penetrates slower. ATF is something nearly every diyer should have in stock. If not, any car accessory shop has it. A single bottle will pay back its cost many times over by fixing seized things.
NT
In message <rie4kj$6pq$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, "Brian Gaff (Sofa)" snipped-for-privacy@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
Although 'WD' does indeed stand for 'water dispersion', it does about ten additional things. It might not do them as well as something specifically designed to do some of these things, but it does do them.
poorly and overpricedly at best.
Provided you are aware of its limitations, it generally doesn't do a bad job. And unless you demand the best from every function, you only need one can instead of ten.
Try PlusGas before anything more drastic.
Indeed. The only thing it really excels at is as a cutting fluid for turning aluminium on a lathe.
You could try soaking it in vinegar. I?ve used it a few times on things which were ?do or dump ? and generally found it works.
It seem fashionable to moan about WD40, and yet I suspect we all keep cans of it about.
Yes there are things that will do each job better, but often you just need good enough.
(also worth remembering that these days the name represents a range of products, including things like a spray white lithium grease, penetrant, PTFE lubricant, silicone grease etc)
It's more fashionable to say it's great. The idea that it has numerous uses has really caught on. Trouble is it fails so much of the time. People seem to have unrealistic expectations of what is a poor product outside of its original purpose of water displacement from vehicle ignition systems.
If you only ever buy one liquid product for diy jobs, make it oil. Oils can lubricate, free up rust to a varying extent, prevent rust etc. Baby oil is typically cheapest, ATF is generally best. I'm saying nothing about the ethics of baby oil!
NT
When fitting a new water pump, I once used Savlon and some cornflakes packet as an emergency alternative to Hermetite and an asbestos gasket. Does that count?
Card is the classic bodgit & leggit gasket.
Polypropylene rope also works well in lieu of PTFE tape or hemp.
NT
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