Ford Focus "Engine fault" and "Transmission fault"

The engine warning light may be on normally until the engine is started.

The key has lost contact with the immobiliser receiver. Have you got a spare key to try?

Have you checked the battery volts under a decent load - like say headlights on?

Did this warning message only appear after the car was parked up?

The key opens the door remotely, so I assume that contact is made.

Some warning lights go off, none of the engine ones though.

AB

That?s a different system to the immobiliser though. That usually involves a RFID chip build into the key (along with the unlocking stuff).

Doesn?t sound good. Might not be anything major, just a major pain to find the cause.

Tim

Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp Esq brought next idea :

That is part of a completely separate system, nothing to do with the immobiliser or ignition.

No, I'm not sure where the DMM is, but i have every confidence the battery is fine, headlights are bright and dont show any marked reduction when wipers are started. The started appears to be inhibited as there is no trace of a clunk when the key is rotated.

Yes. Although I had the engine management light come on six months back. The engine ran rough when first started. This happened twice. I thought it might be plugs as my first Focus had a similar problem and the plugs were disintegrating. No Engine or Transmission messages though.

As usual when the fault cleared, I forgot about it.

Thanks for the reply

AB

That sounds a good enough check.

Right.

Not sure about your car - but many of these check engine etc lights don't stop an attempted start.

As has been said, many cars have a chip in the key which communicates with one in the lock - to disable the immobiliser. Totally separate from the remote locking - and doesn't even need the fob battery. Have you got a second key you could try?

Unfortunately not.

I would have thought that the message would not be specific to both engine and transmission though, if it were a fob problem.

Regards

AB

sounds like you need an OBD2 scanner

NT

Could well be two or more separate faults.

'Trans Fail' used to light on my BMW with low battery volts. Nothing wrong with the transmission.

I assume this is a computer link with some kind of diagnostics?

There is a test function on the lh stalk and it brings up what seem to be A/D status information.

I found some website that provides suggested local dealers, I'll see what that produces.

I dont like vehicle wiring, but feel helpless really. My first experience with an auto electrician wasn't good. He replaced everything in the ignition circuit on an Orion, and when this didn't cure the problem started on the plug leads again. Everything he tried, I got a bill for. In the end I diagnosed that it was nothing to do with the ignition myself. It was an intermittent fuel blockage.

AN

This maybe?

In message , snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com writes

On the vehicles I've had, the basic OBD2 scanners didn't help much, but there was software that could read the more specialised codes. I don't know whether this applies to Fords or not.

It took a bit of scouring forums to find exactly what was needed, but what I found for the Jeep and Rangie was better than the independents had and cost very, very little. (I've probably posted before how the local Jeep main dealer didn't have diagnostics).

My local independent has Snap-on and something else more recent, both pretty expensive. My understanding from talking to him was that they were good for most vehicles, just not for mine. I'd hope a Ford would come under "most vehicles".

i did notice when I engaged the test function the battery was reported as being at 11.8 V. I connected a set of jump cables and read 13.8V, the car was identical in reports and also inoperation when I tried to turn the engine over though.

Thanks for the suggestion though, for a brief moment I didn't feel totally useless in the face of technology :-)

Regards

AB

Often just a cheap BT 'dongle' you plug into the ODB port on your car and can 'talk to' via Bluetooth app on your Smartphone.

Personally I like the 'Torque' app as a good all rounder.

That's where OBD tools come in.

Sounds like the 'lucky dip' approach?

And why many of us are in this d-i-y group. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Thank you, very informative. It seems that the key is fine, I have the "skilled technician" problem:-(

Regards

AB

Many thanks Bill.

I had a squint on Ebay and have found one that should be arriving mid week.

I probably shouldn't have bought the Ford, but it was my old company vehicle. It never stood a day until now though. It was a brilliant plodder, used a bit of oil, but we had a lot of Focus cars that did also from new.

I will hold off the garage appointment until the unit arrives.

Regards

AB

Nothing wrong with that. I bought (for £25) my old Sierra (2L GL Estate) after it had been my company car for 10 years and kept it another 13 years. It was still actually running well the day I chose to break it myself, just showing some rust and other general wear and tear (the red paint had gone pink and the dash was cracking up in the sun etc).

Of all the cars I've had I miss that the most for it's basic reliability, simplicity and practicality.

Cheers, T i m

If it is the case that it is a problem with the RFID chip in the key or the pick up coil then it will flash the immobiliser LED when trying to start it.