Servicing panels in suspended ceiling, Each holds 4 tubes, 4 chokes etc,. R
eplacing tubes or chokes as necessary. In one or two cases tube will work w
hen choke is removed and fail when choke is replaced. (new tube, new choke)
However when working with choke removed it will not come on if switch is r
ecycled. Whats going on ?
On Wed, 23 May 2018 03:52:34 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com wrote:
<snip> >obviously if refitting the starter causes the tube to stay unlit the starter is faulty. If it causes it to restrike, that's to be expected.
I recently bought a batch of 4-80W starters to go with the two 75W
fittings we have in the kitchen.
It seems they are 'marginal' somewhere as they might typically run for
maybe a couple of weeks and then cause the lights to flash off (and
sometimes then stay off). Replacing starter No1 with No2-6 could cause
the light to behave correctly or continue flashing (off and on again).
I have a plug-in voltage monitor in the kitchen and I haven't been
able to tie any strange behaviour of the starters with the voltage.
Replacing those starters with electronic or other suitable brand /
models has the (new) tubes running correctly again.
Putting one of the 'questionable' starters in a smaller fitting sees
it working fine.
Cheers, T i m
4-80W really means "up to 5' tubes".
75W tubes are 6' (and were 85W originally, when 4-80W starters were made).
Tube voltage is temperature dependant. It's highest when tubes are
cold, so this likely depends on the room temperature, being worse
when trying to start the lamps when the room is colder.
High tube voltage will cause the starters to think the arc hasn't
struck yet, and keep retrying.
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
You are now saying 'starter'. The starter is only needed to start the
tube, hence the name. Remove the starter and when power cycled rapidly
it might or might not start. From cold, without the starter, chances
are it will not start.
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