Hi My other half wants to install Floorboards in our living room. At the moment we have a Concrete Floor.
Can you install floorboards on top of Concrete, by using battens ? If so what are the suggested Batton sizes ?
Thanks
If you use battens, they will need to be at least 2X1, slate battens or similar, laid flat so that you are resting the flooorboards across the 2 inch part, the only drawback here is that the floorboars themselves will be
18mm thick, coupled with the 25mm of batten, so you will have a 43mm step up into the living room, almost 2 inches, which will also make your skirting boards partially disappear and your doors too tall.Hi Phil Err.... Slate Battens ?
Not too worried about the rise in Floor height. If we do it, we'll do the dining room as well. The house is a Welsh 1850's Farmhouse, and has odd sized doors that you have to stoop to go through anyway.
The idea of wood is to "enhance" the massive > > Hi
he means wooden battens. the timber would rot if it was laid directly on the concrete as it needs air circulation around it and under it. Use good quality battens and treat them as they are the first to succumb to dampness or fungus etc. looks like you will be stooping a lot more if you do this job. A good reason perhaps not to do it. Before you start take up the skirting and replace it in the finish leaving a small air gap all round from the new flooring to the wall.
Roofing battens, commonly called slate battens, around here at least!
Strips of the underfloor 'padding' that is used for laminate flooring would suffice, the air will circulate OK because T&G has grooves for this purpose
Roof battens are tannalised, hence my suggestion, although a few coats of something else would be a good idea, Ronseal do a good all purpose timber treatment, which protects against wet and dry rot and also insect (woodworm) infestation, it requires 3 coats and costs around £25 per gallon, but it spreads for miles, being very thin.
AKA tanalised tile laths. 2x1 approx pre treated timber.
They're what I used to buy from Jno E Nelson, roofing contractor, in Holm(e)side, for my model railway baseboard framework.
... some 45 years ago :-)
It must have been wet or woodwormy in your bedroom.
Whatever happened to the figurehead of Nelson from Holmeside. It was at the new premises near Hendon Library but it was no longer there last time I passed. I hope it hasn't gone in the skip without being weaseled.
I am part way through doing the same job at the moment but I hit a snag. I was going to take up the screed floor above the concrete slab then put battens down. That would have maintained the floor level. Unfortunately the d*****ad who buit the extention never put a damp proof membrane in so I finished up digging up the concrete slab ( I use the term concrete losely) and put joists in. You could take up just the screed but you might not like what you find.
Kevin
The DPM goes under the concrete slab, not the screed
No, it doesn't. Not necesasarily.
Excuse me? - the floor itself is a concrete slab, the screed is very often optional - most plans stipulate a 'screed or non-dusting finish' whether you choose asphalt, sand/cement screed or whatever else is immaterial, the DPM is underneath the concrete floor (or if the BCO insists, underneath the jablite, which is under the concrete), the screed can be as little as 40mm, this would be useless on top of plastic as it would just fall apart.... YMMV.
Yes I know that, there was no dpm under the slab, the fact that there was no membrane showing above the top of the slab was a give away. Not a lot of point in having a dpm otherwise. The builder who did my porch did the same. Put the dpm in but didn't run it up the sides. What was that point of that. No wonder the there was always evidense of damp on the porch floor when ever there was heavy rain.
Kevin
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.