Fixing thread bar into wall

On 20/08/2022 15:05, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk wrote: ...

I assume you managed to get it stable then.

Reply to
Colin Bignell
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Yes well sort of. I built the scaffold tower as normal in front of the structure and as close as possible. I was then able to lean out over the structure (sometimes with my foot stabilising me on top of the structure ) and get to the area I needed to. Having said that, the scaffold tower is quite wobbly. Nothing obvious causing it other than potentially the slight diameter difference between the male and female bits. I have 2 cross arms one on each of the first 2 layers and it is 4 layers high so about 4m. Any ideas to stop the wobbling?

Reply to
leen...

concrete screws with threaded head discreetly placed in the wall to which you can attach a rigid support? I have several just below the gutter to which I attach hanger plates and old Dexion if I want a ladder to be really solid.

Reply to
Robin

I think it is an inherent property of scaffold towers, once you get that high. I've used hired professional ones to access high level lighting in a factory, with a perfectly flat concrete floor and felt them move. Much better than a ladder to that height, but, of course, you are not supposed to lean out of the work area.

Reply to
Colin Bignell

get it a set of outriggers...

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or lean (a) ladder(s) up against it and lash on at the top.

Reply to
John Rumm

clamp some diagonal bracing, like 2x4 as long as you have, to the tower, while at the ground end bash in some short bits of timber and screw/clamp to the bracing.

Reply to
Andrew

Ah yeah ladders as outriggers sounds a great idea. I have a few around so will give that a try.

Reply to
leen...

Do you mean using 4x2s as outriggers?

Reply to
leen...

So I followed your plan and have drilled the holes ready to put the thread bars in tomorrow. One of the holes seemed to break the end of the brick so am in the cavity. What's the best way of applying the resin as I don't have a back to stop the resin going into the cavity. Also the holes for an m8 bar is 9mm so the nozzle may not be thin enough to get all the way in. Any ideas?

Reply to
leen...

Since the nozzle won't fit right in, you can push it in as far as it goes and give a couple of squeezes, then pull it out a bit and repeat. Basically you are aiming for the back 3/4 of the hole to have resin deposited in it. For the one with the missing back, make sure you screw the rod into the hole so that you distribute the resin round the rod and it's threads rather than push the resin out the back of the hole.

It is not that critical, the stuff sticks like the proverbial to a blanket!

Reply to
John Rumm

Stuff anything you can find into the cavity . I've used cotton wool, newspaper, bog roll - it doesn't natter what as long as it can stop your resin dripping out of the far end But I would be using car body filler anyway.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Didn't get a chance to do the resin but all prepared for tomorrow. I did however try the ladders as stabilisers and it worked a treat. There is a vertical bar in the middle of each tower section so was able to jamb the ladder against that where it meets the horizontal bar above. No need to lash or clamp it and it made a big difference. Top tip John thanks.

Reply to
leen...

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