Fixing door handles

Are there any tricks to fixing door handles? I've been putting new door handles in the rooms. I've had several where the catch won't spring back properly once both handles have been installed. This is because I haven't got the handle absolutely square and there's enough friction between the connecting rod and the handles or the lock so that the spring can't return the latch properly.

This isn't helped by the fact that the handles are round and the handle itself is a larger diameter than the plate that screws to the door so it's difficult to get the screws to go in straight. They are all at a very slight angle.

The handles need to be accurately positioned, even 1mm too high too too low is sufficient to cause the lock to bind. So are there any tricks for getting the handles accurately positioned and fixed?

Reply to
Kit Jackson
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Well I found buying handle sets with strong springs was a good idea quite early on. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

I don't know if it is the best method but I've found it helps to make a template for the holes in the plate with stiff card, then use that to mark the door, drill pilot holes and put the screws in. Then when you put the handle on the pre-existing holes keep the screws straight. Well, usually :(

Reply to
Robin

Can you not fix the plate before you attach the knob?

Reply to
John Rumm

Yes, of course. That's the way to do it. Same as any repeated job, first make a jig. Thanks.

Reply to
Kit Jackson

Yes. If you can, drill the pilot holes for the fixing screws right through the door keeping the drill absolutely square.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

We didn't get the handles from Screwfix but these are similar.

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pair-52mm/9049h

So they are screwed directly in position. What's the part called that the screws actually go through? Is it a plate or a flange or a rose?

It seems the whole thing is not a handle anyway it's a knob.

Reply to
Kit Jackson

The OP reported 2 problems. What I posted was addressed at the second - viz. getting the screws in straight. I don't see why that requires pilot holes drilled "right through the door". Nor do I see why the drill has to be "absolutely square". But then all I was after was something better than can be done when there's a big knob in the way.

Reply to
Robin

Yes, it's funny how often a big knob will get in the way. :-)

Reply to
Johnny B Good

Lever type handles should shave a circumferential spring to offset the unbalanced weight of the handle. Keeps the handle horizontal.

Needs to be moved in some designs depending on left or right hand doors.

Reply to
harry

Yup that design is a bit crap. I find if you loosely fit the knobs on both sides you can usually feel the point at which the shaft feels free and "floating" between them.

For awkward fixings, I sometimes use a blob of hot melt adhesive on the back so that I can stick it in the right place first. That stops it moving about while getting the screws in.

Yup

Reply to
John Rumm

I found that friction, plus the lack of a return spring on knobs (which are apparently what you are using) meant that they were nearly always unsatisfactory with standard door latches. You can get especially strong latches with a sufficiently strong return spring to overcome a considerable amount of friction. An example which proved satisfactory:

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Two disadvantages I could warn you about, firstly they only turn one way, which actually helps if the knob on only one side of the door is a bit too near the frame for one's knuckles; and secondly they were a small Imperial unit of measurement bigger than the existing ones. This may be just because the old ones were old, but possibly they are a millimetre or two bigger then the standard.

Solved the same problem when I suffered it.

Reply to
Roger Hayter

Because it is often slight misalignment that causes the handles to stick. It adds friction to the system.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Speaking as an expert on the making and bodging of errors, I feel your method will only make the original misalignment worse, and not leave the option of moving the second knob in the opposite direction to the first!

Reply to
Roger Hayter

Like everything else it needs some skill. It's how I've fitted new handles for ages even on old doors. But obviously make good any old holes with new wood first.

Non of my many door handles stick. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

And refitting the latch if that's not square else the spindle will stick when the roses and spindle are square (if the spindle fits at all then)?

And repainting the whole door if the new roses don't cover the marks made by the old ones?

If so good for you.

But as I did try to emphasise I was addressing only the issue of getting the screws in straight(ish). I wasn't making any assumptions about the OP having not just the skill but also the the time and money to do a perfect job. (I don't claim to have the skill but I do know I've helped out neighbours who'd have been mortified if I'd told them they needed their doors refurbished just 'cos they wanted brass knobs and they started off with doors where the rose on one side was well above and to one side of the one on t'other side. And my handles didn't stick after a bit of bodging by way of enlarging holes, fiddling roses about and shortening spindles. Well, not much!)

Reply to
Robin

Facetiousness apart, I am sure your method is a very good one if you get the holes in the right place and you can drill perpendicularly.

Reply to
Roger Hayter

Only giving the method I use which works well for me. You are perfectly entitled to ignore it and use whatever suits you best.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

A common fault is not making the holes big enough with thee inevitable result of catching the catches. OTOH if you make them too big your screws won't hold.

If you make a complete hash of it don't be afraid to block it with a stub of broom handle and filler and try again. (Get a drill the diameter of a skinny broom handle to be prepared for that.)

Reply to
Weatherlawyer

To get the pilot holes perpendicular to the door surface make the jig at least 2", or more, deep and drill the guide holes with a pillar drill* through the 2". Clamp the jig to the door and drill through the guide holes.

  • Or with your normal electric drill in a cheap drill stand
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Reply to
alan_m

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