There is a message a few posts down about a plumbing invoice got me wondering. My house has got gas CH but I would use the immersion heater in an emergency. The immersion hasn't worked for some time but I ahve never got around to replacing it. Bearing in mind the cylinder/heater have been in place for 25 years how difficult will the heater be to change.
Kevin
It's rather down to luck. Sometimes they're well and truly stuck. It's usual to slacken them with the tank still full of water which holds it steady. But of course if the cylinder splits, you've got a problem. ;-)
Ah, good and bad. Immersion heater will be well and truly stuck. However, 25 years ago the cylinders were probably thicker and will withstand more in the way of mistreatment than current ones.
I would soak the threads in easing fluid of some sort (probably won't help but it might). Next day try an immersion heater spanner on it, with all the water still in (gives the tank a lot of strength). Tap it, heave on it etc., but watch the tank doesn't start to give. If it undoes at all, drain the system and carry on. If it doesn't, you are in for a new tank as well.
There's no need to take the old one out. Just put an additional one in near the bottom, which just requires a hole saw. This is a much safer alternative to attempting to release a 25 year old one. Also, check that the old one is indeed broken. It could be just a broken thermostat, which is easily replaced.
If you do attempt to remove the old one, loosen it with the tank full. Rather than putting on lots of torque to the spanner, make short sharp blows on the end with a hammer. The shocks will be more effective at loosening it, whilst reducing the tendency for the cylinder to distort or crack. However, you should note that the chances of failure are quite high and should have an alternative solution in mind (i.e. cylinder replacement) and the ability to rapidly drain the cylinder without causing damage to floors and ceilings.
Christian.
Useless advice. If it doesn't move, then use a blowlamps and heat the copper around the old immersion. This expands the metal and the brass immersion slips out.
So why bother posting your useless advice then?
Good to not try when it is full of 'kin hot water either ;-)
But near enough the same as all the other *practical* people on here have given? But it's nice to see you've taken my advice and started to deal with simple things.
You'd have to expand it a long way before the immersion would 'slip' out.
6/10.
FWIW I tried losening a stuck immersion element with a flat spanner and it buckled the tank. the best tool for the job is a box type spanner with a bar through it as you can control the rotation and deflection. the flat type spanner seems to 'torque up' and in my case buckled the tank.
heat *is* beter than penetrating oil and if you slacken the outlet on top of the tank (after cutting off the cold feed, obv) you only get whatever water is held in the tube (half a litre) escaping rather than the gallons that escape if you just crack the element and unscrew it :D (been there, done that)
I then cut the hot outlet 22mm at centrepoint and added a 22mm copper pushfit joint to allow me to rotate the hot outlet pipe clear of the top of the cylinder. I then syphoned out enough water to clear the element hole.
it's hot, I'm tired, but the OP should get the picture ;-)
RT
But if you try the impact method, you need a spanner that is in line with the 'nut'.
Well, there shouldn't be much leakage - if any - if you just break the 'seal'. You can tighten it up afterwards if there is, then drain down enough to remove it.
Hopefully there should be a drain c*ck at the bottom of the cylinder? If not, and you've got to do some plumbing, fit one.
There are many different ways to approach this problem and all welcome. ;-)
It's nice to see him trying to give advice on simple problems after I told him to do so.
Of course, he immediately gives the worst case scenario.
Please, you haven't a clue what you are on about.
More senility.
Another amateur loony.
A senile man who twiddles knobs for a living. Sad but true.
I tried that - it made the problem worse.
I suspect you haven't actually done 'it'
cylinders are gravity fed ... pressure from the bottom forces the water out of the top, not t'other way round. the element is fitted to the tank about 8" below the top of the cylinder. remove the element and that water /has/ to go somewhere.
deffo haven't done it.
aye, tis true.
RT
I know, you claim to be a pro. Although in this case I expect you are.
You don't heat the brass you Pillock.
Coming from him, that doesn't surprise me.
Some are mains pressure fed.
In what way? I find a ring spanner my first choice - whacked with a hammer.
I've replaced a few, but don't claim to be an expert.
Eh? Most immersion heaters are top mounted. Others I've seen are side mounted. But 8" below the top?
In case of confusion, I was suggesting only loosening it while the cylinder is full of water - not removing it. After it's loose, you then drain down enough to allow removal.
Then do. ;-)
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