Can anyone tell me why wooden worktops are finished using oil (danish?
rather than clear varnish such as a really tough polyurethane floo varnish?
Thank
-- chopsaw
Can anyone tell me why wooden worktops are finished using oil (danish?
rather than clear varnish such as a really tough polyurethane floo varnish?
Thank
-- chopsaw
So that it doesn't look like cheap plastic crap?
Apart from what Andy said which is true...
I think it might be that oil seeps into the timber and therefore provides an extra level of protection. So whereas PU varnish might chip and allow sitting water to penetrate (unlikely really) the oil won't.
Mind you...imagine what a beech top covered with PU varnish would look like....ugh
Cheers
Nicholas Buttle - Quality Joinery and Cabinet Making
And it's more durable than varnish and can be reapplied as necessary without having to strip it back etc.
cheers
Jacob
We've an oak kitchen table that was originally varnished. The varnish inevitably chips in places and stains appear that are a real contrast to the 'protected' areas of varnish. i stripped and oiled it a couple of years ago. Now the whole surface is aging together and any marks blend in and add character.
We've oiled various pieces we've bought or made since then and are seriously considering doing the new flooring we'll probably fit this year.
An oiled finish is a bit more work but ages much better IMO.
Thanks to everyone who replied to my question. Looks like it's oil then.
Chopsa
-- chopsaw
I've got (homemade) tiled worktops with mahogany edging. Originally, these were finished with varnish. And secured with brass screws and cup washers for easy removal and re-finishing. After a couple of redoes I changed to oil. Much longer lasting and far easier to make like new. Looks better too. ;-)
As a matter of interest, does it matter which oil one uses? We always use Danish oil, but I see a variety of rivals in our local builders providers.
Hi,
BTW how does an oiled worktop cope with tea bags, coffee grounds, cooking oil, that sort of thing?
cheers, Pete.
I've tried a few. "Pure" oils are good but take a long time to dry. We used Tung Oil for some stuff. Other oil finishes are available that have driers in which makes them much quicker to dry and easier to use.
Ikea do an oil which we've found good - very thin and appears white but dries quickly which makes it less of an effort and thus more likely that you'll reoil when it needs it.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.