Extra Deep Surface Mount Box Source

Jun 21, 2010 15 Replies

Hi all



More on the kitchen electrics planning! I intend to mount a number of sockets on the wall, but have them stand off far enough to protrude through the backs of cupboards. These are intended for washing machine sockets, cooker isolators and the like. Does anyone have a source for extra deep surface mounted boxes? The backs of the units on the kitchen we are considering are 57mm from the wall, but the deepest boxes I have seen are 45mm. I could mount them on timber packs I suppose, but would rather do this with proprietary boxes if possible.



Thanks



Phil


Why the need to have them protruding into the cupboard? I've usually sorted this by attached them to the wall as normal, and then cut a circular hole in the back panel of the cupboard immediately in front of the socket; the hole is just big enough to just get my hand through and extract the plug for servicing and should the fuse ever need changing (not sure what your plans are but I route the flexes behind the panels not within the cupboards).

This way there's no impact at all on the storage space within the cupboard.

As a nice-to-have ISTR once hanging hardboard disks over the holes, slightly larger than the holes themselves, acting like keyhole covers, to keep the cupboard insides clean; but latterly I haven't bothered and it hasn't been a problem.

David

It's not usual to use a surface mount box poking through anything as they are the same size as the socket and would make cutting the hole tricky for a tidy job. Unless you intend making the kitchen units removable while leaving the sockets in place.

I have not seen deerer that 47mm backboxes.

If the backs of the kitchen units are solid then you can use dryliner boxes.

Adam

Do kitchen units become part of the house structure so within the regs to do this? I'm happy with this at home but wonder about doing it pro wise?

I don't have a problem with sockets and switches in kitchen cupboards. I consider kitchen cupboards to be a part of the house structure (you don't take them with you when you move house).

It comes down to a bit of common sense as where to locate things. I will not put a cooker switch hidden at the back of a cupboard but I will put a socket at the back of a cupboard for a dishwasher etc.

Cheers

Adam

"ARWadsworth" wrote

My current scheme has the hob feed switch exposed, but the integral oven feed switch (on the other side of the kitchen) at the back of an adjacent cupboard. The image here

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shows the proposed socket and switch locations. To the left of the door are 3 tall units, the centre one has a "hole" for an integral oven. The left hand of the tall units has sockets at the back (one to be used for powering the fridge freezer in the right-most tall unit. It also has the cooker switch and fused spur at the back discussed previously for the integral oven supply.

Phil

I would install the hob switch near the front of the unit (with a bit of trunking).

Adam

I must admit to having never switched off the cooker isolator in some 40 years of having electric ovens. Probably due to time switches, etc. Except of course when changing the oven.

There are surface box extensions (and galvanised flush backbox extensions).

The problem is the surface box extensions are hard to get hold of.

- MK do a thin spacer, circa 4mm, for use with deep dimmers.

- MK probably do 16mm & 25mm white brittle-plastic extensions.

Check the current MK electric website, quite a few new things there. GET may do them also.

Just confirm they are surface boxes, not flush PVC boxes which do exist in 16-38mm 1G 2G in the UK and 45-55mm 1G imported from HK (BS4662, Clipsal).

"ARWadsworth" wrote

Hi Adam

I guess you mean just inside the door on, say, the right hand side panel of the tall left hand unit? It would probably work if I leave the main cooker switch on the back wall, then run 2.5mm to a fused spur (labelled cooker switch) at the location you suggest to feed the oven. The proposal is to fit a single oven requiring a

13A hard wired supply.

Phil

"js.b1" wrote

Just confirm they are surface boxes, not flush PVC boxes which do exist in 16-38mm 1G 2G in the UK and 45-55mm 1G imported from HK (BS4662, Clipsal).

Yes these are surface boxes. The deepest I have found so far is 45mm, but I will check the web sites etc.

As Lobster has suggested, I could just cut holes in the back panels and simply wall mount the sockets - I'm maybe over-thinking all this a bit.

Phil

I think you may want to do that anyway - re cable entry. Mount the boxes on suitable depth battens arranged vertically at the rear. Then mount the boxes on them, with the cable entering the rear.

The MK PVC (conduit) boxes in 1G & 2G are more forgiving of being bashed by objects vs shattering, but only come in circa 38mm depth. They come in square corner & round corner depending on whose wiring accessories you plan on using.

Yes

It the switching of the hob not the oven than needs to be readily accessable.

Cheers

Adam

I certainly remember having to switch my parents electric hob off in a hurry one night.

The rules were simple. If I came back home late and drunk again then I had to forfeit my holidays at my parents and go back to Uni early. I came in very late and very drunk. When I opened the back door the kitchen was on fire. It seems that my Mum had piled a load of crap onto the ceramic hob ready to go into the bin in the morning and she had caught one of the switches as she did so.

I remember my Dad coming downstairs and half aseep shouting through the smoke "Thats it you can get back to Liverpool in the morning" and then getting halfway back upstairs before realising the house was on fire.

Adam

...and that's your version of the story and you're sticking to it...!

David

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