There's a border separating the top and bottom of the walls. The top area has beeen painted with different emulsion than the bottom area. The bottom area is powdery and has started to bubble under the fresh paint. Is there some kind of stabilising coating that can go between the old and new surface? Otherwise, what is an effective way to solve the problem?
Emulsioning wall problem.
Feb 04, 2025
Last reply: 1 year ago
13 Replies
Perhaps
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Thanks, I did do a search earlier and found this brand of stabilising solution and some similiar options, but reading the reviews about the stuff when applied to emulsion and distemper type problems weren't very reassuring.
I might take a chance with the stabiliser if my current, less than joyous method of soaking the wall with soapy water then scraping down to the pink skim becomes too horrendous.
Even if I get right down to the skim finish I'm not sure if it will the be safe to apply a coat of emulsion straight onto this.
30 years ago my experience with distemper applied thickly to the walls was that most of it had to be removed. A previous owner of the house had attempted to wallpaper over it but that paper was already detaching from the walls and stripping it off from a whole room took all of 10 minutes. :)
I found the easiest solution was lots of soapy water a scraper, some scouring pads and a large sponge. I used a garden sprayer to wet down the walls and with many applications over a period of hours to keep the distemper constantly wet. The distemper was then scrapped off as a sludge - a messy job.
I then treated the wall with an (exterior) solvent based sealer which soaked into the trace amounts of distemper left on the wall a sealed/glued it to the plastered wall (old type 1 inch thick plaster)
If it's that bad you need to get it off first. Once you have the worst off try pan scourers.
Eamaple
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Don't use them individually - combine a pack or two together and you can cover a large area in one go before having to rinse off in a bucket of water.
Possibly paint was applied incorrectly to a freshly plastered wall and all the moisture was immediately sucked out of the paint. If you are unsure about the previously painted surface I would recommend using a primer/sealer type product.
Thanks Alan, very detailed and helpful advice. This place was built in the early 70s, so I don't know which of these several coatings are likely to be distemper but the powderiness and the bubbling doesn't seem like any emulsion I've worked with before. I'll definitely use the sealant you suggested before attempting to put on any paint.
I bought a job lot of wet'n'dry sanding blocks which is a hard sponge rubber block encased with wet and dry paper.
Dip in a bucket of water and spray water on the wall and they remove 'emulsion' paint really quickly and you also end up with a wallthat is as smooth as the proverbial babies bum.
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It ain't cheap, but completely solved the problem where paint on a wall was peeling off in giant sheets due to a powdery dust coming out of the plaster.
Although having done all the prep to clean and sand the now-exposed plaster surface, the proof of the pudding is whether it continues to stick over the course of years (and whether there was something substandard in the way the original paint was applied).
Theo
A thought ... could it be damp? What's on the other side of the wall?
Well, there is damp and mould which is being worked on. The powdery part isn't damp. It might be the result of earlier mould and damp treatments though.
Thanks, I'll try some of that.
Fix the damp first and wait for summer to make sure the wall has dried out before wasting time and money on trying to decorate.
How old is this property ?. I always thought you lived in a block of flats that are not-exactly 'historic'
I do live in a block of flats, built in the early 70s. There's been a west facing gable wall damp problem which is being worked on. This particular room being decorated is south facing and has developed some damp and mould due to overflowing guttering. Moss seems to be the main cause. There's a lot of it on the roof, recurring despite occasional clearing.
From the tips I've received in this and other previous threads I've managed to overcome the mould problem. The immediate effects of white vinegar and the longer term effects of mixing salicylic acid into the emulsion seem to have done the trick. The addition of Aspirin was recommended on this newsgroup some time ago when I was having mould problems in the kitchen, which have never recurred since these tips were followed.
This Newsgroup has been a great help over the years. Thank you all.
70's builders were a right sloppy lot (I'm all right jack; you can't get me I'm part of the union etc etc) and could have chucked the snots that ooze out when laying bricks inside the cavity. I assume it does has a cavity gable end wall ?.
There may also be design errors where water penetrates the outer leaf (which it will with a west-facing wall) and then encounter whatever pre-stressed concrete beams are used to make the floors and cross the cavity.
Also, it might benefit from re-pointing, which I *think* you mentioned once.
Yes, the situation is a long way from perfection and it's all a bit of a trudge. There's some resistance to expensive maintenance by the management company, and they do have a relatively low service charge. So, I'll just potter along doing what I can to reduce the problems. And also keep harping on about the situation at general meetings.
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