I do see some old fuses at repair events which are not labelled as BS1362. I have one which failed to interrupt the supply when it blew and turned into an arc lamp inside the plug. There was no evidence it was sand filled, so failing to break the circuit is not unexpected.
I got better results with several thousand uF at the PSU end of the wire before the switch. Electromagnetic movements benefit from a good kick. That was running an old mercury switch dingdong.
NT
I didn't explain that well. The cap is inside the box but across the output of the wart, if it was across the bell it would make things worse.
Why would you want a non lighting power source?
Why would you want a socket with a 3A fuse in it if the wallwart is designed to fit a 13A socket?
Am I just missing something?
Why not just fit a 13A socket from the existing power supply, plug your wallwart into that and be done with it?
Well, try something new
Crank Doorbell Circuit Schematic
How many batteries can you buy with say a years worth at a 10W load?
Maybe, you can have wired battery powered door bells.
I agree. The wiring to the socket is protected by the MCB and it is the wall wart's job (if even vaguely reputable) to protect its own 240V components as well as the ElV side.
No newish wallwart quiesces at anywhere near 10W. Not even 1W now.
1W is about £1 a year, for which you can get a poundland pack of junk batteries or a few good ones.The batteries are probably slightly cheaper if using electronic sounders, b ut you have to buy & replace them every so often, you'l get missed calls an d the battery contacts will corrode sooner or later. In short it's a false economy, if it's an economy at all.
Yes - the worst of both worlds.
NT
Not quite in keeping with the application, which is almost identical to this:
Well done that man! I'd assumed that having a 13A socket on the lighting circuit was against some regulation (that I hadn't found) and failed to engage brain. Thanks! Brain now engaged and I will stop thinking about it (but I *will* add a label to the socket, for the benefit of whoever is here next).
And how much current do you think it draws?
the battery or the transformer, how about both :)
How do you make that out? I have a wired battery bell (two bells in parallel actually), and don't have to change the alkaline C cells any more often than their shelf life of 6 years.
Having 13A socket on a lighting circuit is fine as long as it is not going to be mistaken for a general purpose socket. An additional label on the socket also helps.
I doubt that anyone is going to climb up and use your doorbell socket to plug a toaster in:-)
What makes you think that Poundland batteries are junk?
I've been using their Kodak Extralife batteries for years - long life and never had one leak.
Those currently on sale have a shelflife of ten years. The only downside is that I noticed last week that you only get 5 for a £1 now - before it was 6. However, everywhere else I've seen them there have never been more than 4 in a pack.
Running costs are less than a third of the costs of the cheapest Duracell - see the results here:
ZnCl batteries are somewhat junk. Alkaline not. The site you linked to show s one reason why, the other is their habit of leaking. Brand has nothing to do with it.
NT
Oh come on I'm sure some of us work with studenys, apprentices, YTS or whatever the lastest term is.
Monkey dust :- Kelly work experience
Wife or kids ?. don't people just their phones or tablets these days ?.
Do US or continental wall warts plug into 5 amp round pin sockets intended for lighting ?.
There is no such thing as a 5A socket in Europe but continental wallwarts fit sockets both for the 2-pin 2.5A 'Europlug'
as well as the standard 16A Schuko or its French/Belgian variant.
You may encounter 6A versions of the Europlug and matching - usually multiple - sockets but they are not defined by any standard.
No idea what they do in the US
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