Electric heater connection in bathroom

I will be installing an electric heater in a bathroom (actually a heating element that fits into a water-heated towel rail), and I'd like recommendations on what I can use for the wall connector. The heater will be in zone 3, so obviously it's not going to be a 13A socket!

I could use a blank-front wall connector plate, but I don't think even these are within regs. for a bathroom as they're not splash-proof. I haven't come across anything that looks suitable.

Any ideas welcome.

TIA Rick Jones

Reply to
Rick Jones
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Non IP rated fittings are permitted in zone 3 so that connector plate is permitted.

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Reply to
dcbwhaley

Strangely, I'd already read that page, and managed to get the idea that non-IP wasn't allowed at all (AOT standard sockets that aren't allowed). Don't know how, as on 2nd reading it's clear as daylight - my brain can't be screwed on today :-/

Cheers

Reply to
Rick Jones

On 22 Oct 2006 05:18:40 -0700 someone who may be "Rick Jones" wrote this:-

To add to what has already been said, an outlet with a neon indicator is useful, to see whether the element is on or not. MK make these, they also have a fuse in but that is no matter.

Reply to
David Hansen

Belated reply - thanks for the neon suggestion, I was thinking of using one of those.

Followup question: since the rad heater is only 250w, is it acceptable to wire the feed into the lighting circuit? It's obviously not a problem in terms of the actual load, but are there rules that say a wall outlet of that type must be on a higher power circuit?

I can see the thinking could be that someone in future might replace the rad warmer with a more powerful heater, and assume that an outlet of that type could take up to 13A.

easier to connect this particular location to the lighting than to a ring, even as a spur.

TIA Rick

David Hansen wrote:

Reply to
Rick Jones

On 2 Nov 2006 05:44:31 -0800 someone who may be "Rick Jones" wrote this:-

Assuming the lighting circuit will not be overloaded, the only thing one could use to argue against it is probably something general like it not being good practice. Provided that the design and workmanship is appropriate, correct cable sizes, control gear and so on, it simply becomes a matter of debate.

Reply to
David Hansen

It might be. You have to allow 100W minimum per point on a lighting circuit (actual load if greater) and not add up on the basis of 12W CFLs everywhere :-)

Don't think so.

Yes. A clear label inside the box, and at the CU, might help.

I remember "heat-n-light" units being very popular at one time, and they were more than 250W.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

Thanks for your thoughts, that gives me more confidence to hook into the lighting. I'll count the number of fittings on that circuit first though :)

Cheers Rick

Reply to
Rick Jones

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