elecs- how to fix consumer unit etc to wall?

George (dicegeorge) coughed up some electrons that declared:

Ply is fine. In fact it makes a lot of sense - gives you something easy to put the cable clips into.It was considered a problem in the days of antique equipment with open backs, but not anymore. I'm making a floor-ceiling wiring cupboard for my CU and the entire back will be sheet ply.

Assuming you aren't planning to refit antique fusegear with an open back ;->

Cheers

Tim

That never stops electric companies mounting the cutout/main fuse on wood!

A large sheet of chipboard should do the trick.

Adam

I'd not use chipboard unless in a totally dry place. Plywood is much better - and for such a small amount the cost shouldn't matter.

as you say its only a small amount so what is 'best practice'

What kind of plywood, one inch thick?

What about using old floorboards, that'd look good?

I hate chipboard because it cant cope with wetness, and it burns poisonous at the end of its life thus is a landfill waste and probably poisonous to worms with that glue

George (dicegeorge) coughed up some electrons that declared:

Just as thick as you need for clip nails and screws. 1/2" would probably be the minimum useful thickness. It'll be screwed to the wall, so it doesn;t have to be structural.

Don't see why not, but it'll be best if the sit flush with each other, no steps.

Cheers

Tim

I hope you are joking?

Oh Christ, if you can't even do something that simple, get someone to wire it for you.

Meter boards have some sort of flame retardant treatment.

but they're americans...

it doesnt say what 'treated' means - does that mean pained with Cuprinol?

I could use chipboard but I want something better. Then it will be ready for a power company to install new fuses and a meter

i'd upload a photo of the crumbling plaster but my ftp aint working tonight!

Re: elecs- how to fix consumer unit etc to wall?

To restore balance to the world George (dicegeorge) wrote in gabi0f$11g9$ snipped-for-privacy@energise.enta.net

This is a joke ? as it's lost on me.

Chris

baton (2x1) on the was fixed with plugs and screw then screw the ply to the batons.

Chris

why the battons? why not screw the ply directly to the brick wall?

You normally bring out the cables behind it.

aha - i think the old fuseboxes may have wires coming out the back, but new consumer units have them coming out the sides..

So its not an airgap for ventilation or heat dissipation..

I want them as close to the wall as possible cos there's a door opening towards them, and i want to be able to get my wheelbarrow in and out.

All the ones I've seen have the option.

No - although ventilation is a good idea with any wood especially if its in a less than dry place.

That's a novel reason. ;-) Make sure you put some form of door stop in to prevent damage to the CU.

If you're having a utility company hook it up it'll need to be to proper spec, as will the installation connected to it. The purpose of the board is to insulate the CU from conducted damp and condensed damp due to thermal contact with a cold wall. Just ask them what type of board they want.

NT