egg crate door replacement

why not

Reply to
Jim GM4DHJ ...
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?Pee like a muslim, sitting down, then you won't need to worry about 'poor aiming in the half light'

Reply to
Andrew

I have done the same to make an L shaped fitted desk in my litle bedroom/office. I used a scavenged fire door from a skip (Boots brighton refurb) for the wall under the window, cut down to 195mm length and 70mm depth and an eggbox sapele door cut down to 70mm depth for the longer wall. All fully supported at each end, so nothing to bang my ankles on.

The sapele doors have finished edges too, like the fire door.

Reply to
Andrew

Why not construct a door, where a major portion of the door was made from shower curtain. If you put shower curtain on both sides, that would let light through. Use 2x2 for door framing, and the wood would be easier to work with your spoke shave and plane, to make the part that meets at the door jam. It depends what door thickness you want, as to what starting materials are best.

+------------+ | Curtain | | Curtain | | Curtain | |--- | +-O----------+ |--- | | Curtain | | Curtain | | Curtain | | Curtain | +------------+

If the curtain is applied to both sides of the door, that would give a degree of privacy (if one sheet is not enough).

The materials should be relatively cheap. Since fasteners in DIY projects are a major expense, you can use a staple gun to fasten the shower curtain. Reinforce the staple location with reinforcing grommets. Using decorative strips to hide how the shower curtain is affixed, will drive up project cost.

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You can also get toilet bowl lighting solutions. But then, once in a while, you'll have to recharge the battery. It would need something like a PIR sensor.

Paul

Reply to
Paul

IT IS THE HALL THAT IS DARK

Reply to
Jim GM4DHJ ...

So you are trying to increase the light in the hall and not the downstairs bog ?.

LED lighting is your friend, plus maybe some changes to the decor to reflect more light.

At this time of the year in Glasgow, daylight, never mind sunlight is in short supply.

Do you have a solid front door ?. If so, maybe change this for one with some glass panels. If there is greenery outside blocking natural light, chop it back.

Reply to
Andrew

I see your OP says 'top hall', so for the rest of us that would be the landing (1st or 2nd floor).

My upstairs door frames have a fixed glass panel above the door which allows light to permeate into the landing when all doors are shut. What is above your upstairs doors ?.

Reply to
Andrew

I think PIR lighting for stairwells has been discussed before, battery powered things.

You can see in this example, they're disc shaped items with

3xAAA battery inside. You could try NiMH rechargeable with it. The light should come on, as you walk by.

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Using starting materials like that, you have the skills to improve on how it works.

Paul

Reply to
Paul

When I had my doors and windows replaced I had like for like. My downstairs hallway gets its daylight from a 1/3rd glazed front door and narrow glazed windows each side (frosted glass) and my small kitchen at the back of the house from a half glazed door and a small window above the door. My neighbours with a mirror image layout of the house went the other way and installed doors without any glazing, The window above the back door had previously been bricked up. This means that unless their back door is open they have to turn on the lights every time that they use the kitchen and their hallway is much darker than to needs to be.

Reply to
alan_m

a pain in the arse isn't it .....

Reply to
Jim GM4DHJ ...

how patronising....THIRTY FIVE POUNDS !!!...no chance

Reply to
Jim GM4DHJ ...

Well, that's not the only design, now is it.

Those aren't practical. It was to show the concept. Of having lighting that comes on when you enter the area.

Paul

Reply to
Paul

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