Drill Bits info please

Yes on second thoughts, the vice would be ok for shortish jobs, the rails are 6 feet long.

Reply to
Bertie Doe
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The party wall is 5" thick concrete, approx 3' high. The idea is to fix 3' high by 4' wide wooden panels on top of the concrete wall. I say "approx" because the wall varies in height. There is a 10 : 1 slope and the wall was built with 6 steps, to compensate for the slope.

So each of the 14 panels will have to be tailor-made. Each panel will consist of a frame, made from 2" x 1" planed. The frame will be routed, to allow 9mm tongue and grooved, to be inserted - horizontally.

I'll fix the 2 end rails (60' apart), as a guide or reference point, for the remaining panels. There's no rush, I could pace myself at say 3 panels per weekend. Each rail will be 6', the bottom half will have 4 x 9mm holes (staggered) for the thunderbolts (multi montis) and the top half will have 4 x 4mm holes, to fix the wooden frames/panels with s/s nuts and bolts. First, I have to disassemble a 1" thick concrete coal bunker and move it to my allotment, 30 yards away. I'll have the biggest composter in the road -:). Thanks all.

Bertie

Reply to
Bertie Doe

You only need to slacken the vice and slide the rail between the jaws. I'd rather have the work properly fixed than have my fingers near the drill or get in the way of the end of 6' bar wanged round at a few tens of rpm when the drill binds.

I've held stuff in the past but having "got away" without injury when the drill bound a coulle of times I'm a little more careful now.

With long stuff the hardest holes to drill are those near the ends as the work won't balance on the drill table. Those neare the middle aren't so bad.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

"Dave Liquorice" >

Thanks Dave, if I ended up with a broken finger, I'd have wished I'd spent the tenner!

Reply to
Bertie Doe

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Certainly buy a vice because they have lots of uses, but give the angle iron fence a try as well. There's no real risk involved provided that you use a normal standard of care, and it will be quicker for your immediate job.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

Will the wall take the extra windage? Is it reinforced cast concrete or brick/blocks rendered? I'd be concerned about a brick/block wall failing at the joint below the rails and the whole lot just blowing over.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Thanks Cic, but I need to persuade the wife to go for the pillar drill. Local machine shops are a bit cagey as to pricing the job. They are quoting £30 per hour, but won't estimate just how long they think the job will take.

Reply to
Bertie Doe

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I meant the angle iron guide fence I suggested for your soon-to-be acquired pillar drill.

The ninety holes you require shouldn't take much over an hour (possibly less) for a machine shop but for little more than the price they're charging you could have your own drill press for present and future use.

If you can persuade the wife to wear a pair of gloves to help with supporting the long lengths you'll have the job done in no time. Start with 1/8" pilot holes and work up to final hole size.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

Good idea, it's 15 rails X 8 holes giving a total of 120 holes. I assume a machine shop will also need to do pilot holes also, so they may 'round up' to 2 hours work. In 2011, the wife wants the other boundary wall/fence done, so a pillar is a good long-term investment.

Reply to
Bertie Doe

45s per hole? Not including changing the rails, drilling pilots etc, though a machine shop may well be able to do 8mm straight off.

Sensible timimg is more like 3 to 4 hours.

I agree that the machine shop price looks to be more than the cost of a small drill press and vice. One assumes the OP has a suitable bench it can be bolted down to of course.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

It was built before I moved in. It looks to be concrete blocks, concreted onto 9" x 2' deep footings. 2 of my neighbours use the above method and so far, they've lasted about 10 years. I think they use Cuprinol every Winter.

The main casualties in the area are a couple of featherboard panel fences. First the timber supports rot, then they blow over.

Reply to
Bertie Doe

I bought an el cheapo from B&Q years ago - one of the first at an affordable price, for me anyway. And I'd say it gets more use than any other power pool I have. It's not the most powerful of such things having a small induction motor so I have it on the slowest speed all the time. It would take several goes to do 8mm in steel. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

p.s. the concrete wall is strengthened with 7 piers.

Bertie

Reply to
Bertie Doe

I've one that just takes a drill, so the Bosch can be put in - bit more oomph than a cheap unit. It's also more versatile, e.g. pressing in head bearings squarely.

Reply to
PeterC

Drill stands which take an ordinary power drill can be useful - but aren't anywhere as accurate as a pillar drill. And most drills run too fast for this sort of use anyway.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I think B&Q are leaving Homebase behind in the dust, in terms of product range. Am I alone in thinking HB are highly overpriced?

15mm chrome compression fitting, local store 99p - Homebase £2.99p 2.5m red/blue w/machine inlet hose, local £1.49 - Homebase £4.99p
Reply to
Bertie Doe

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If my estimated time is seriously wrong (can't be sure without reference to Guinness Book of Records) it improves the case for buying the tool to do the job. I doubt if I would need 3 or 4 hours to drill 90 holes (or corrected to 120) on my elderly machine so probably somewhere between my estimate for a heavy duty machine shop drill and mine. At £60-00 approx. it really doesn't make sense to pay someone to do the job when you can buy a tool to do it yourself at a more leisurely pace.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

Agreed - but better than hand-held.

The Bosch can run nice and slowly. The stand won't, of course, take the SDS

- just as well, the drills heavier than the stand!

Reply to
PeterC

Rarely if ever use Homobase, never mind green dungarees, the staff should wear stripey jumpers, berets, masks & carry bags marked 'swag'.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Oh yus.

I use 150 rpm for everything. Very few mains drills will run that slow without the smoke magician asserting his influence.

My SDS drill with the chuck adaptor to use ordinary drills is even more sloppy than a normal drill in a stand. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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