Drill attachment query

[Kroma]

Hi,

I've just had a new Hi-Fi cabinet delivered and it requires some holes in the back to feed my plugs through.

The man in the shop described the special drill bits I would require and when I got home I found that I had some included with my drill.

They are like round pastry cutters in various diameters. The question is... how do you fit them to a standard corded hammer drill? I can see no way of attaching them and have read the drills instructions (there is no mention even though the set of bits and pieces came WITH the drill).

The drill is a JCB corded hammer action.

TIA,

Daz

[Terry]

Find the standard twist drill bit that fits the central hole in the cutter (probably ~ 6mm). Insert the bit until the tip protudes beyond the saw part and clamp in place with the set screw in the cutter.

The bit fits into the drill in the normal way and the business end drills a pilot hole to guide the cutter.

Terry

[Mathew Newton]

They're called Hole Cutters. The following picture (found via Google Images) should make it clearer what bits you need from your drill set and how they fit together:

turn the hammer action off!

Mathew

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

Do you mean these type? if so go down the bottom of the page you will see the arbour,if you havn't got this bit then you're missing it.

[Kroma]

Thanks Terry - I think I've got it... should the bit look like this when assembled:

?

And to think - I was going to disassemble the drill!!!!

Daz

[Kroma]

Thanks everyone - I'm all ready to go!

Regards,

Daz

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

Since you're only going through hardboard? go slowly with the drill.

[Weatherlawyer]

I don't think so. Where are you going to drill -and don't say at your place.

[Kroma]

Eek - into the back of the HiFi cabinet - from the back inwards.

It's not very thick.

Daz

[Andy Hall]

The other thing that one can do with these is to drill carefully from the "back" side letting the pilot drill go through and then the cutter to score the surface to a depth of a millimetre or so. Then drill from the "front" side all the way through.

This will avoid splintering as the cutter goes through.

[Terry]

If it's not very thick, you won't be able to adopt Andy's 2-way cut suggestion but don't cut from the back inwards (unless the back of the cabinet will be openly on view - which I doubt.)

When you break through you can expect a lot of splintering around the hole - assuming it is wood. This won't look very pretty if any of it is visible but, more important, it will be a bit nasty for anyone who gropes round the back of the equipment for any reason in the future!

Here's the scenario: you buy a new bit of kit which you want to connect to the Auxiliary input of the amplifier. Rather than pull every thing out, you swing it around from one end, insert hand with new cable and suffer multiple lacerations on the back of the hand from the splinters you forgot about ages ago....!

Terry

[Alex Threlfall]

There should be a disc like object with grooves on one side and a pole sticking up from the other side, the pastry cutter bit will slot in the groove, and the pole goes in your drill :)

[Kroma]

Good point. The only reason I was thinking of going in from the back (ooer) is because I was worried about pressure from the front 'bowing' the back of the unit outwards. This won't happen in the other direction as the shelves and drawers will prevent bowing. However, upon reading you tip I think I'll risk the bowing.

Thanks,

Daz

[Andy Hall]

Actually you can if you are very careful and only score the surface - I've done this numerous times on thin ply and hardboard - that's why I said no more than a millimetre or so and going carefully.

[Kroma]

Thanks for your help everyone - job done and it's perfect!

again,

Daz