I have lots of silverline router bits and as yet don't know
how much better a quality router is. I need a 2" long trimmer/
cutter and have seen draper doing one for about 6 - 7 quid as against
the silverline version at less than 3 quid. I've also seen a makita
thats more than 25 quid.
Is the draper a good class of cutter?
My 2" long trimmer bits cost over 30 quid each and have a 1/2" shank.
I use it in a Freud 2000 router, costing around =A3150. It's long
rather than wide, so I do use it freehand and not just in a table.
I wouldn't use another bit of comparable size without similar
investment in quality. I wouldn't expect good cut quality otherwise.
For sheer safety, not just results, I wouldn't use a cutter of that
size unless it was a 1/2" shank.
If I am using my router on end X and I am stood at position Y, the router
bit is going clockwise (when looking from above). Do I push or pull the
router to avoid scorch marks? My instructions say something like "allow the
bit to cut towards the workpiece"
Top Face | X
Scorching doesn't necessasrily mean its the feed direction that causes this
it is also combined with crap cutters or idling of the router ie pausing
along the cut.
The cut has to be made in one fell sweep of the routers direction.
Another scorching problem is using a cutter without a bearing.
That's what is confusing me. As the cutter is going clockwise do I go
around the work clockwise i.e. PULL or anticlockwise i.e. PUSH the router?
P.S. I'll have a good read of the link you sent later tonight as I am going
A few more points:
- One other way to be sure about this in a given situation is to offer
the router up to the work with the bit stopped. The conventional feed
direction will then be the one where it will be the same as the
direction of the cutting edge of the bit against the work.
- For a handheld router and working around the *outside* of a piece,
this means anticlockwise traversal.
- For a handheld router and working *inside* a piece - e.g. trimming a
hole cut for a sink in a worktop, the router will be traversed
- For a router in a router table, the feed directions will appear
reversed, because the router is the other way up.
- After a while, it becomes second nature, but until that happens, if
unsure, offering up the router while stopped will do the trick to
clarify the point.
- It *is* possible to cut the opposite way. This is known as climb
cutting. However, it can be dangerous because if the bit digs in for
any reason, the router will be pushed in the direction of feed, climb
into the cut and run dangerously away, possibly at the operator.
Therefore, in general it should not be used. The exceptions are
small in number such as in certain cases with a small laminate trimming
bit with very light passes.
One to watch here is the fence position. If you place it such that there
is a gap between the fence and the bit (as it it were a table saw), it
can be very dodgy trying to edge profile that way - since the feed
direction is reversed again - get it wrong and it will snatch and launch
your work at high speed.
Can help polish off any tearout on a final pass in some cases (crap pine