Double box cable outlet faceplate thing?

Hi All,
I currently have a double 13A socket that is going to be temporarily lost behind a unit in the lounge and would like to replace that with a suitable (switched / fused) faceplate running ~1m to a 4 way gang that I can then plug light / portable stuff into (mobile phone chargers, network kit and the like). Ideally the faceplate would have bottom rather than front cable entry to keep the profile as low as possible.
Now I've seen all combinations in the single box size but not double (I'd be happy with a single outlet and the other half blank but it would all have to be the size of a double).
I would like to have maybe 10A (just in case) so a clock socket probably wouldn't do (and only come in singles I think).
Any thoughts please?
All the best ..
T i m
p.s. I don't really want to move the socket elsewhere, re-work the double back box into a single nor cut the unit in that area if I can help it . :-(
p.p.s I'm more bothered about doing it easily, neatly and safely than anything else <wink>.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I've no idea what it is you are looking for but can't you use an extension lead .I have one that is both switched and fused and iirc has 4 sockets . The switch does disconnect ALL the sockets but you can get something like this http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?TabID=1&criteria=usb&ModuleNo "4805&doy=search&C=SO&U=Strat15
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I know exactly what he is looking for but I can't see the advantage in using a switched FCU over an extension lead. In either case the switch will be inaccessible. Even with an unswitched FCU the fuse will be inaccesible. This being the case, why not just use the extension lead?
By enlarging the hole sideways about 25mm you could fit one of these:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AP636.html
and then fit two FCU's side by side or an FCU and a blanking plate. The advantage of this approach is that it still doesn't look too bad if it is revealed at a later state and converted to two single 13A sockets.
--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Ah, ok, I'll try to explain better. The space between the unit and the existing double 13A socket is too small to even allow a std 13A plug-top to be plugged in. So I was hoping to 'temporarily' remove the double socket and fit some form of cable outlet and then a trailing socket (4 way will do). I don't really want or need a fuse or switch there but thought I might have to have one (and / or should have one to protect the flex) and why I mentioned having a higher rating fuse in this socket than in the trailing lead (so the lead in the fuse would blow before the one in the plate ... hopefully). If I had to I could pull the unit out (to change a fuse etc).

I had thought of that Bob but it will involve quite a bit of work (and potential damage) as I fitted these boxes / sockets some years ago and I'm pretty sure they won't come out easily.
But still, a good option for the reasons you gave (so thanks). It's on the option list now. ;-)
All the best ..
T i m
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 01 Sep 2008 19:30:40 +0100 someone who may be T i m

I have never seen what you want. That doesn't mean they don't exist, but I haven't seen anything suitable. You might want to peruse the grid ranges of Crabtree and MK to see if anything suitable could be assembled, but make sure there is a clam for the outgoing cable and proper protection against chafing.

I wouldn't bank on discrimination between the fuses, even if one is 10A and one 3A.
--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
T i m wrote:

Perfect excuse to buy a Fein Multimaster or Bosch PMF180. Cut a rectangle out of the back of the unit so a plugtop will fit.
Does the job & you get a new power tool...
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 01 Sep 2008 21:22:42 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"

;-)
I have a similar tool (but not as flash) but if I cut away sufficient to allow a plug to pass the unit wall collapse.
All the best ..
T i m
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Wicks do a FCU with bottom flex exit.
--
*The older you get, the better you realize you were.

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 02 Sep 2008 00:29:28 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"

Hmm, that'll be a single though won't it Dave?
I'll have a look inside this double and see how easy it might be to fit a twin box (as suggested previously).
All the best ..
T i m
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

No need - as it's temporary and covered by the furniture simply fix to one side of the existing box. You could cut down a one gang blank plate and make some form of strap between the two if you want a higher strenght fixing combined with a safety cover. Then it will be easier to reinstate the two gang socket.

--
*Why don't you ever see the headline "Psychic Wins Lottery"?

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 02 Sep 2008 09:35:56 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"

Ah, a 'thinking outside the box' solution. ;-)
I guess that as long as the single plate is reasonably stable and the hole filled up then not much can go wrong eh (not pretty but safe enough, electrically etc). Especially behind a unit. ;-)
All the best and thanks Dave.
T i m
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Plates tend to sit on the wall so a one gang in a two gang box will be supported on three sides. Of course the majority of the strength in these things is in the outside rib which you'd need to remove on one side to fit the smaller box - but if concerned about strength use a metal one.
However, if you use a plastic plate and cut it accurately, araldite a steel strip on the back to provide a fixing for the second screw (perhaps a self tapper) you'll end up with a neat safe and secure result.
--
*I have a degree in liberal arts -- do you want fries with that

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 02 Sep 2008 11:18:46 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"

Agreed.
But this is only the blanking plate yes?

I was thinking about that and considered bending a bit of 10mm x 2mm strip to form a offset square 'C' section, the long side screwed to the back of the box with two self tappers and the short leg under the floating mounting plate hole on the FCU (tapped to 4BA or whatever those box screws are). I could even drill another hole in the trimmed blanking plate and fit a suitable spacer underneath and another tapped hole in my bracket. ;-)
All the best ..
T i m
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 02 Sep 2008 11:18:46 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"

Well, I got the FCU, a couple of blanking plates, a short length of 16A flex and the multiway and upon inspection found (and something I had in the back of my mind) that the metal back boxes also had the 2 lugs on the long sides top and bottom. The meant I could fit the FCU sideways (not ideal but fully functional and brought the cable out perfectly) and retained with two screws and a blanking plate suitably trimmed fitted using two screws over the remaining space. ;-)
All in all took ten minutes, is pretty safe and easily reversible! ;-)
Thanks to all who replied, it all helped.
Al the best ..
T i m
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

You lucky sod.
Adam
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:33:43 GMT, "ARWadworth"

Tell me about it Adam!
Or maybe it was foresight when I fitted the back boxes all those years ago (not)! ;-)
All the best ..
T i m
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

One option is
<http://www.screwfix.com/prods/74950/Electrical/Switches-Sockets/MK-Grid-Plus/13A-Fuse-Unit-Module
feeding
<http://www.screwfix.com/prods/63994/Electrical/Switches-Sockets/MK-Grid-Plus/20A-SP-2-Way-Secret-Key-Switch-Module
with this <http://www.screwfix.com/prods/82380/Electrical/Switches-Sockets/MK-Grid-Plus/3G-Module-White-Front-Plate
this
<http://www.screwfix.com/prods/40024/Electrical/Switches-Sockets/MK-Grid-Plus/3-Module-Grid-Frame
and this
<a blanking module that is not for sale at Screwfix>
Carefully cut/file/drill the faceplate at the point you wish to bring the cable out and you should not have to worry too much about the profile.
Not a cheap way of doing it though.
Adam
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 01 Sep 2008 17:10:00 GMT someone who may be "ARWadworth"

How is the flex emerging from the faceplate to be clamped?
--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote this:-

A good point. One that I missed.
There is a proper cord outlet that would take up the 3rd module instead of the blank. I cannot find my MK catalogue for love nor money and cannot guve a cat no.
Adam
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 01 Sep 2008 19:17:22 GMT, "ARWadworth"

http://www.mkelectric.co.uk/PDF/technical/GRID_PLUS_prod.pdf
K4886 WHI ?
But, as we thought, I think this brings the cable out at 90 deg to the plate (so will intrude into the room) .. :-(
Mind you, it will be easier to put a bit of a bend in some flex than to squash a plug top! ;-)
All the best ...
T i m
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.