Does flash banding stick to lead

a lead patch adhered with leadmate will last a /very/ long time.

Really. That would be great, but doesn't it matter that it will be proud of the existing surface, albeit only a lead thickness? I guess water will just run around it.

Alistair

correct. still a temporary fix though, the valley will need replacing.

I prefer to use latex gloves when using leadmate as it really does stick anything to anything.

hth

Flashband will stick provided that you use a primer first. Leadmate will seal the split on its own, just spread on 25mm each side and build a ridge over the split. smooth the edges with a wet finger.

Here's the correct way. If you can get on the roof, remove the slates or tiles on both sides of the valley where the split is. Cut the split all the way across, lift up the top piece of lead and insert a new piece the same width across. pushing the new piece about 150mm or 6" up under and lapping

Thanks all for great advice. I'll lead patch just because I've got lead and leadmate and it sounds more solid, and then tackle the insert next summer.

As a matter of interest, the section of valley that split was half way down a continuous 3m run and I've been reading loads of posts recently about 1.5m being the optimum max length for flashing and so on. On the basis that the same is true for lead in a valley, there is an example on what can go wrong. Roof relaid about 15 years ago (slate, mortared ridge tiles, lead flashing etc) and is starting to need some TLC, which I think is way to soon.

Alistair

Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder metals do) at night. We had some exceptional weather recently to send it over the edge.

What your problem was, is not what your problem is now.

The water has affected the boards supporting the lead, the nails holding the board and the attic below before coming into the house. And the weather doesn't seem to want to clear.

Get in there and take a couple of halogen lights with you and a camera, then report back.

Have fun.

I had similar problems (after about 10 years) on an extension where they had laid a continuous 4 metre run in code 3 lead, nailed all down both sides. I replaced it with 1.5 metre sections of code 4 lead, top fixed, which has now lasted much longer than the original.

The other side of the house (north) took longer to fail, as beside getting less sun, it had been joined to let the stench pipe through, and was thus a shorter run.

I wish I'd kept a better eye on the builder. I couldn't chase him as he'd gone into receivership several years earlier.

CUT>

A 3m run of Lead is far to long. The max run of Valley Lead should be no longer than 1.5m. Im suprised that the roof covering on a 15 year old house is Slate. Are you sure that it is Slate, by slate I mean natural slate and not man made cement fibre slate or any of the poly cement type.

Unless youve seen how a slated valley is carried out, youve got a very specailised job on. One nail in the wrong place can cause water ingress. I would be very interested in knowing what type of slate is on the roof before I give any ferther advice, as a professional.

Lead should never be nail down its entire length. Nails should be 25mm or 1" copper, 2" or 50mm apart 2 rows across the top and one side one third of the length (500mm or 20") at 150mm or 6" spaced. Lead should be Code 4 or

1. Its best to cut to length and formed into a V on a bench before fixing.

Sorry, I was not clear. I meant the roof had been re-laid 15 years ago. The house is late victorian brick terrace.

Alistair

Boards damp but not rotten. Well ventilated attic so I'm hoping no rot will set in once the leak is fixed. I suppose it's probable that the valley has been leaking for some time and has only now become serious. Boarded attic floor is damp but I'm sure will dry out. Main effect below is damp wall below valley with wallpaper starting to bubble. I'm sure all that will dry out fine.

The main concern is the valley, and as you say, the boards and nailing. I just don't have time or money to start re-laying the valley now, so I just have to hope that fixing the split will stop the water ingress, and then will have to tackle the wider problem in due course.

As a side note, one small positive for me is that all my DIY efforts over the years have involved building in a way for me to get access to whatever it is, and in this case the roof is one thing I can easily get on to through a velux from the attic. Bit windy today so for once I am going out roped up. After my coffee break, of course.

Alistair

SNIP valley lead tear problem

B Thumbs

It's just infuriating. Assuming all the other work they did was OK, then that one thing, which would have been a tiny amount of extra work at the time, meant you had to spend time and money fixing something which should have lasted for years longer. If it had been me, and I had been keeping my eye on the builder, I wouldn't even have known to question it. You just expect people to do a good job.

Alistair