We were discussing various ways of chopping up RSJs and other weighty bits of steel on another thread, but no one suggested THIS method!
(don't panic, the relevant part is in the first minute)
/ Jul 22 Cursitor Doom
We were discussing various ways of chopping up RSJs and other weighty bits of steel on another thread, but no one suggested THIS method!/q
One assumed you meant cross cutting RSJs.... Not nibbling a bit of the edge of an offcut...
Jim K
Bloody hell.
I have one of those *demolition* saws. Cost 30 quid from B+Q so possibly a return.
I use it for cutting steel roofing sheets to length. V' noisy and throws lumps of hot swarf at unprotected parts of your body. The good bit is that it doesn't heat the work enough to damage the plastic coating as happens with an angle grinder.
The available depth of cut would not suffice for cross cutting 8x4 I beam anyway. Watching the video, I had doubts that the initial bent/rusty offcut was the same as that used in the final assembly....
My mitre saw will cut steel that thick.
Evolution do a table saw they claim will cut stuff like that and steel roofing sheets, etc.
I have an old B&Q table saw and the TCT blade just goes through nails and screws like they aren't there.
I have a scrap somewhere that has a screw cut down the centre so you can see all the thread profile, etc. which happened while I was cutting some reclaimed timber.
I think all of them will cut metal with the correct blade but you need to ensure the guards aren't plastic or they will erode or melt.
I have a similar sized Evolution chop saw, and while I have not tried to cut 6 mm yet I don't doubt that it would from the way it whips through dexion and square tubing. Obviously, the circular saw is fine for the flanges in either direction, but it won't cut through a deep web.
TCT cuts steel. I cut through various bits of metal embedded in wood with a TCT blade in the last few days. The teeth are very wide apart for steel cutting, but if you take it easy it works.
NT
In message , snipped-for-privacy@care2.com writes
The *demolition* blade has a shoulder behind the tooth to limit the amount of *cut* each tooth takes.
I think a carbide tipped saw for wood might grab too much steel!
I've lost TCT teeth when cutting old wood. Depends how tight the fixings are in the wood e.g. not good if they're flapping about in a mortice and tenon joint.
Yes, I wish to cut right through the entire section. But if it takes a combination of methods and tools to execute each cut, thereby keeping the costs down at the expense of a bit more time taken, then so be it. This is not a commercial/production enterprise.
Indeed - one has to take it real easy. The surrounding wood helps minimise risk of a sudden move too far.
NT
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