Cutting plastic gutters and downpipes

Aug 08, 2008 9 Replies

Just a quick question - What's the best way to do this?



In the past I have always used a hacksaw but this almost inevitably wanders off the line as the blade flexes and I end up with a somewhat diagonal cut. If I remember correctly, last time I used a tenon saw which gave a straighter cut. Of course, I normally try to make sure that the factory finished ends are the ones on show, but that isn't always possible. I'm sure some clever person out there has a much better way of doing it though, to end up with a nice neat joint. I'm sort of coming to the conclusion that I'm going to use the square stuff this time anyway, which should be simpler but someone might know better...



Thanks folks


I've always used and old handsaw, it works fine.

Cut with a panel saw, clean up with a file. Brace the side of the saw blade against the upturned thumb of your left hand to help keep it square to the cut.

I use a tenon saw, or whatever similar comes to hand. (No, I haven't tried an angle grinder;-) I debur with a stanley knife (running the blade across the edge to be deburred, not slicing into the plastic). The edges are normally too far away from the ground to be seen or concealed anyway, but you don't want bur left where it might catch dirt or dislodge seals during assembly.

Standard mitre box isn't big enough, but some scrap timber screwed into a similar shape with flush ends works well. I use a fine tooth handsaw, de burr with sandpaper.

Full size hacksaw works, but you have to mark right round and cut a groove all round before cutting through. Good for very neat cuts, but slow.

Angle grinder (9" preferably) is good for soil pipe, but overkill for gutter.

Old saw is the best compromise between speed and neatness that I've found. Very occasionally catches and breaks the pipe though, so if it's the last piece, I use a hacksaw.

A

I use one of these,

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for me.

HTH

John

I use a tenon saw and it is the best in my opinion, with more control and good line.

somewhat

square

Angle grinder with a thin (1mm) disk works very well. I've just completed a large undergrond drainage / downpipe and guttering project and got myself a battery operated angle grinder for in situ cutting. Made things very easy. Wrap wide masking tape where you need to cut to give a good line then just follow it. Same grinder used very carefuly can taper pipe ends prior to insertion, and also cut notches in guttering if your fittings need them (not all do).

AWEM

When I was fitting the white hex/square stuff I used my mitre saw - gave a factory standard 90 degree cut every time

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