Does anyone have any tips for cutting a kitchen worktop (laminate top) such
that the end is as smooth and chip free as possible. I've not attempted it
yet, but soon I'll need to chop one down to size. I planned on using a bosch
jigsaw with a guide attached.
Should I do it by hand, or get a special blade for the jigsaw?
I've just finished doing a kitchen, I used a downcutting blade and the
results were very good the downside is the blade is quite thin, so it bends
easily. I also used a circular saw to rough cut and then finish the edge off
with a router.
You mean that if you were cutting from the top of the worktop, the tines
(name?) would be pointing downward. yes?
I seem to recall the bloke at the hardware shop mentioning upward pointing
ones, but I asked if turning the worktop upside down would have the same
effect and he was a bit surprised.
they look something like this
http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?part=T101BR , I suppose you could
just cut from the other side with suitably fine blade (coarse blade will
probably make a mess of the laminate). I have to agree with Gruff the
easiest cutting is with a circular saw. Perhaps the best thing is to have a
go on some scrap.
Useful, but expensive power tool take a look at http://www.patwarner.com /
i got a set of new blades; it tells you on the back which are suitable
for worktops. i also clamped a length of wood onto the worktop to guide
the saw along and found cutting it with the right side up gives a
On Fri, 20 Feb 2004 15:00:07 -0000, "John Biddiscombe"
My kitchen worktops meet at right angles forming an L shape.
I cut the joint with a recently sharpened (not newly sharpened) hand saw
of the "panel" type. I cut a mitred joint at the inside corner with the
same. It's quite interesting to find what a professional quality job simple
traditional hand tools can do. They do it relatively cheaply too.
It's very difficult to get a straight cut with a jigsaw. A circular saw is
much better - cutting from the underside and starting from the front edge.
That way, you'll minimise chipping.
As someone else has said, you *could* cut it slightly oversize and then
finish off with a router.
[A router is a machine which uses rotary cutters for making grooves in
things, or rounding the edge of skirting board etc. In the context of
finishing a worktop, you would use a long parallel cutter to machine the
Interesting and amusing that we use the same word (router) to describe a
"rowter" which cuts grooves and a "rooter" which directs internet traffic
via various routes!
Just to make life even more confusing, the Americans refer to the Cisco
variety as a "rowter"!
If you buy one from B&Q they have a timber cutter (in most stores) and will
cut it down for you free of charge. The trick in worktops is joining them,
bet way is to use one of the brackets underneath. only problem is you need a
router.. as far as I know.
Do not under any circumstances allow the monkeys in the likes of B&Q
to cut the worktop to the exact dimensions you need to fit the
kitchen! It should be cut (about) 5mm oversize, and then trimmed with
a router to give a perfect edge.
I have seen worktops that were cut to the perfect size by the monkeys,
and invariably the laminate edge is chipped. When this happens there's
nothing I can do to rescue the worktop.
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errrr.. Ummm.. Actually, the "Monkeys" at ikea said they cut the mitre'd bit
for me along the "L" join. I'm only interested in trimming the other ends
that I asked for "a bit too big to allow for changes" down the the exact
size once all the units are in place etc. Only one end of the total of 6
I'll finish up with will be visible, so I hoped I'd manage it.
Thanks for all the replies. I'm terribly worried about the monkeys now. I
hope the join is going to be ok...sob sob...
Its not a very good tool, but very crefl cuttong works reasomnably.
Cut with the top upside down, and masking tape across the laminate
surface where the cut will go.
I find that trimming with a router with a long bit smooths the edges up much better.
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