On Fri, 12 Oct 2012 09:27:16 +0100, David WE Roberts wrote:
As in another thread: Fein clone at Aldi on 18th. - get there early or
they'll be gone! I missed them last time and ended up suffering the
indignity of a Bosch Pro instead ;-)
By far the best thing I've ever used for floor boards and, if used
carefully, v. low chance of hitting a pipe or cable.
I cut the tongue each side of each joist, slide a knife blade along to find
the joist and mark both sides then try to cut in the middle of the marks but
missing the nails (ideally, leaving the nails in the bit that doesn't need
to come up but...)
The semi-circular blade for the Bosch has a depth that's within a gnatscock
of the thickness of my boards - YFMV.
It can be angled to cut vertically adjacent to the other boards alongside.
This is probably one of those cases where for trade use in someone
else's place, speed may be of more importance than finish. Hence big
saws to get boards up fast. For domestic use where you will not be doing
it every day, the multimaster approach has more finesse. The thin kerf
takes out very little material, and the ability to stick a cut through
at a 45 degree bevel mean that in some cases you can even cut over a
void, but restore most of the strength without a nogging simply by
shuffling the cut bit up a couple of mm.
If you are cutting lots in a continuous cut, a circular saw set to the
board thickness is quick. But you have to finish the cut with a jigsaw
to avoid running on to the next board.
Virtually impossible to take up floorboards over the big area without
damaging the tongues and grooves. If it is a big area, better to take
up and replace with chipboard.
Much quicker too. Remember to leave access traps to get at whatever
when you do the job.
You get lots of draught potential in all the cracks between
floorboards. Especially if you've ripped them up & put back.
Is today's flooring-grade chipboard the same thickness as our 1970's
Even if you feathered the higher edge and used good underlay you might
get a shadow line if it's more than a few mm.
If you have only got a few to do, I would go for a floorboard saw: a
sort of small panel saw with a rounded end, and teeth around the curve.
One merit over any power tool other than a Fein (apart from delicacy) is
that you can cut very close to a skirting board.
The Fein works but is very slow.
The other tool I use is a circular saw set to floorboard depth, after
taking suitable care to be sure there are no nails or screws in the way.
I find the best way to locate floorboard nails in old floorboards is
with a small rare earth magnet.
For every complex problem, there is a solution which is simple, neat,
How are you supposed to use one of these? I bought one but it didn't
come with any instructions. What I have done, rightly or wrongly, is
use the saw "upside down": using the rounded nose to cut into the
floorboard. It has always worked for me, though I wonder if I am doing
it right or if there is a better way?
I have tried the snapped off jigsaw but found that it just bounced
around everywhere. One thing with using a jigsaw or circular saw is
that you need to know how thick the boards are before you begin.
So then, like the OP, I bought a reciprocating saw, just a cheap one
from Aldi IIRC. If you get the angle of the blade wrong, that can
bounce like the jigsaw too, to but most of the time it is fine and
much quicker than doing it by hand.
I have since bought a multi tool, again a budget Lidl model, and
cutting floorboards was one of the main excuses to buy it. I have not
done so yet. People say it will be slower but you can get wider (60mm
ish) blades from ebay, which might speed things up a bit?
If you are going to use a router, there is an argument in favour of
creating a lip/step rather than straight through. That is what things
like the Trend floor hole cutter thingy does.
Couldn't help wondering what happens to the price of straight cutters if
you don't hit a nail. Do they suddenly go up in price? :-)
You need to grind the blade so it is more like the original end if it
doesn't snap in the correct place. And bring the blade to the work slowly
but firmly. It does need a bit of practice (and courage ;-)) to develop
the technique, but once mastered is far quicker than any other way.
*Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery?
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW
I find the normal MO is to reach into the toolbox, slash your hand on
the curvy bit, and then seep claret all over the place ;-)
I think that is the idea...
I tend to use the narrow blades, and just do either 3 or 4 plunge cuts
side by side, or you can plunge in at a tilt and then do a travelling
cut if you want. Its reasonably quick. Doing it with the round "segment
saw" is a bit slower though IME.
I wasn't thinking of using the round blade; I don't know how you would
cut the edges of the floorboard without hitting the adjacent boards
with a semicircular one: the same problem you would have with a
circular saw. The ones I had seen were flat blades about 60mm long.
But I must admit I have not tried one yet.
Turn the semi-circular blade so that the straight edge can be paralle with
the vertical edge of the board and then the last little curved bit at each
end of the cut can be cut straight down.
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