Cutting bottom off steel window frames in-situ

[jonesst2608]

Hi,

I have a house full of steal window frames that have badly corroded bottom sections.

I've repaired one by drilling through the surrounding wooden fame on the lower corners and then cutting upwards using a hacksaw blade. I then replaced the bottom section with teak strip & isopon. After painting it looks great.

My problem is that cutting the frame by hand took over an hour - and the rest of the week for my hand to recover.

I was thinking of buying a reciprocating saw but I would need one with a long and quite thin blade.

Can anyone advise me if this would be is a good idea and if so suggest a suitable saw, or suggest other ways of doing it.

Thanks Steve.

[John Rumm]

8" blades are commonly available - and unlike a hand hack saw do not require the saw frame to support it at the far end.

The favoured tool for window frame removers everywhere! ;-)

Go for one that takes generic blades rather than a proprietary one. Avoid things like the B&D piranah.

More info:

[newshound]

Bosch multimaster thingy

[js.b1]

True, but beware the blade life & cost. They are fantastic tools, but they can eat money if not careful.

For vertical cutting floorboards and such like they are perfection, compared to the nasty habit of wrecking bar and smashed T&G that seems all to common with resulting "trampoline" effect. Ruddy funny when someone walks on one end and the other end rises up just stopping short of someone's face whilst bent over painting the skirting.

[The Medway Handyman]

Agreed. Blades for the Bosch are dear enough, Fein blades require a mortgage. Reserved for 'no other way' jobs.

[1501]

Even funnier when it doesn't stop just short!

[Rad]

Use a Cut Saw (sabre) blades up to 300 long for wood and cirac 150 for metal but no reason why you cannot adapt a hack saw blade if you have the right tools to deal with hardened steel personally I would just buy the bi metallic ones for a one off job You will never regret buying the tool

Chris