Crimp tool adjustment

[Mike Clarke]

Just been practising with my new cable crimper from TLC and was wondering if these can normally be assumed to be correctly pre-set to the right force or not.

The first attempt with blue crimps and 2.5 mm cable produced joints which were quite strong but had a just perceptible amount of axial movement, more a case of hearing a slight click when I push and pull on the wires rather than visible movement. I've moved the ratchet adjuster one notch stronger and this seems to have fixed the problem - just one of the test joints still had a slight movement until I gave it a second squeeze.

Is it normal to need to alter these from the factory settings and how far is safe to go? The jaws look to be fully closed before I reach the ratchet release point so it looks as though the last bit of squeeze goes into deflecting the mechanism rather than the crimp.

[Andy Dingley]

No, never - because they're adjusted to a _size_ limit, not a _force_. This is usually pretty accurate though - it depends on the jaw stop butting before the ratchet releases. So long as the jaw is actually closing, then it would have to be a pretty crass manufacturing fault to cause trouble.

Blue crimps !

The problem with pre-insulated crimps is that you're trying to crimp _through_ a layer of squishy insulation. It's obviously convenient, but this just totally sucks as a way of making a reliable crimp. It's particularly a problem if you're gauging from a constant dimension, rather than a constant force.

If you can, use post-crimp insulated terminals, with a sleeve slipped on afterwards.

If you have to use pre-insulated, juggle brands until you find one that works with your wire diameter and your crimpers.

Obviously check the crimpers too for any visible problem or fault. Loose insulation or wire strands trapped in a jaw is the obvious one.

[raden]

In message , Mike Clarke writes

The jaws close to a preset distance apart, the force (as long as it's sufficient to close the jaws .. for the pedants) is immaterial

[Phil Addison]

That's the theory, but my TLC red/blue/yellow crimper does have an adjuster on it marker +/- and I had to slacken 1 notch as it just would not squeeze down that list click. Maybe there is a slight(?) tolerance in the thickness or material of auto grade crimps.

The TLC one also has a lever to release the ratchet should you be unable to complete the crimp-and-release action in one go.

Phil The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at

NOSPAM from address to email me

[Andrew McKay]

Or if you manage to crimp onto a fold of skin, or worse.....

Andrew

If you need help with those general DIY projects you can give me a call. More information about what I can help with can be found on my web site:

[raden]

In message , Andrew McKay writes

While inserting your Albert ?

[Andrew McKay]

I guess they must make such large crimps, but somehow I don't think the crimp pliers have been invented yet :)

Andrew

If you need help with those general DIY projects you can give me a call. More information about what I can help with can be found on my web site:

[Andy Hall]

RS have them - part number 549-628

[raden]

Andrew, you need a sig separator

google is your buddy

[Andrew McKay]

Oh yeah.....sorry ;)

Andrew

[Nigel M]

... are the spawn of the devil ;-)

The only way to get a reliable crimp is where the arms of the lug fold over from a C shape into a B shape, but these cost more money and are less easy to find (anyone got one, and a source?).

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I've got one for car etc 1/4" spade connectors. From Vehicle Wiring Products. Gives truly pro results.