Crap Tools

Not if they're made properly

I know some are slightly tapered to ensure they can't work lose ..

When I was in trade I'd weld a bolt into the plug and replace it.

Sadly you've fallen victim to the "buy cheap, buy twice" approach to life. It doesn't take much imagination to work out how the manufacturer manages to keep their factory busy ...

Best tools I have ever used by a country mile were made by (or for) FIAT. DF is still using the spanners over 60 years after he "acquired" them.

US tools are also pretty good. Snap-on may be ****ing expensive, but you only ever need buy one.

could it have a left hand thread?

Would not appear to be the case - if this is the right box.

Still worth giving at whack or three clockwise even if it's a RH thread. And a squirt of plus gas.

Allen style insert for a socket wrench.

Example (probably not the right size):

Righty tighty, lefty loosey, or t'other way ?

The video here, at around 5:15, the gentleman is using a socket wrench. And for whatever transmission this is, it looks like lefty loosey. He was turning counter-clockwise to open it up. He had the car tipped a bit, to make the video, which affected the fill level.

Later in the video, he checks the fluid level one last time, and he seems to be removing more than one fastener at that point. A bit of fluid slops out after he has it open again for access.

I'd just make sure I was cranking the correct thing, and that's not a structural fastener keeping some gasket compressed.

My last car, I had the proper shop manual, and what a difference that makes :-) Not a Haines. The instructions can still be imaginative, but at least the pictures of stuff are good.

And I d *This car uses a special coolant solution*

they weren't kidding. Follow the instructions! It's unbelievable the s*it the engineers pull on this stuff.

Paul

That link is for a 17mm hex - which the illustration definitely *isn't*! [The picture looks more like a 7mm or 8mm hex to me]

One of those of the right size plus a decent impact wrench should shift it.

Yes, it's worth seeing if there's a way to access the dealer manual. Some manufacturers allow you to pay for a short access period to their online manual (a tenner for a weekend kind of thing), or there might be an 'unofficial' way described on a forum somewhere. It's a lot better than a Haynes as it's designed for dealers troubleshooting and maintaining things.

Theo

Good ones, no.

They can be but I've not had one beat me yet. ;-)

I have a range of short and long, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" sq drive socket to hex (and spline etc) bits and I would have probably started with the

I would use the shortest bit I could.

I would set myself up to be able to put the best focused effort on it possible (ideally pulling at 90 degrees).

If it didn't move with the std length ratchet handle, I'd try a T bar (push pull as a T then right at one end) and then an 1/2" sqdr breaker bar, keeping in mind the size of the hex and once absolutely sure it was the right way.

If it still won't move then, if it uses a crush / flat washer I might try some Plus Gas (*not* WD40) but if it's an 'O' ring I'm not sure that would help.

If there is anything like a shoulder you can get some *good* Mole Grips on, you could try those along with the ratchet handle.

If that doesn't work (and assuming you have a spare plug and *are* sure you are turning the right way, see if you can knock it round the right way with some tangential taps to a cold chisel, cutting into the outer corner (not hitting it too hard for risk of damaging the gearbox casting (fins etc)). Bothering wrong with a few taps in the other direction during any of this.

If you are single handed and can do it easily, the hex bit in 1/2" drive supported in place and tensioned against something with a ratchet strap (or a mate pushing / pulling on it) *and* trying to tap it with the chisel / hammer (making sure the ratchet can't fall onto your head if it does break free).

'Pre loading' whilst tapping is a very powerful combo.

Then about all you have left is some heat (you don't want to soften the steel) and / or weld a nut / bar onto it?

If you don't have any good (round jaw) Mole grips and there is a shoulder you can grip, than you can get some very big pump pliers fairly cheap and again, could be used to apply a pre-load or additional load, along with the hex etc.

Cheers, T i m

Get tha allen key type that fits your socket spanner.

Have a look in here

At least part of the allen key has to be no wider than 8 mm --- what's the limit on torque that any affordable alloy of that size can take?

I have a cordless impact driver. Often called a rattle gun - the sort of thing tyre shops use on wheel nuts. It works a treat on stubborn fixings. It has a standard square drive, so my socket allen keys fit. And being short, not so likely to bend.

Of course there may not be access room for one of these on your box.

Thumping with a club hammer is definitely the wrong approach, you are then applying moments to the interface which will result in local loadings and deformation, usually of the socket. You need a cheater pipe, and try to apply a reaction force at the bend in the allen key so as to apply a fairly pure torque. Also easier to do with a hex bit in a socket wrench, or better still an impact driver, if there is room for one.

Twisted key sounds like incorrect heat treatment.

Gearbox filler/level plugs can be difficult to remove: they tend to be put in with high torque, and they are not disturbed often.

Now, what could possibly go wrong there ?

It looks like the fill plug matches the thing it screws into. It might not be caused by dissimilar metals. It it's an aluminium alloy, maybe the surface could pit a bit, but would that cause it to stay put ?

The thing it screws into, would be an expensive place to make a mistake.

Paul

I have a small hex-key torque wrench - includes 3 to 10 mm. And torque settings 2 to 24 Nm. I'd be a bit surprised if I came across something it was unable to manage - unless there is a problem such as corrosion.

Long experience of steel bolts etc into ally - as on the old Rover V8 - tells me if you want them to come out easily years later, you need to use a thread sealer. To prevent the two corroding together. A socket type allen key is likely to be a lot stronger than a 'bent' type, though.

You could also try heating it with a hot air gun.

Most Allen Keys I've tried to use beyond their abilities tend to just break somewhere. Brian

I'm rather surprised to see them in a relatively new car part. Most are Torx these days.