Corion worktops

Jun 19, 2007 25 Replies

Maia certainly looks more encouraging. Do you know what the outer skin is made of?

I'm after a 1800 x 600 length and an L shaped section about 1700 x

1200.

The L shape has a 45=BA join in it at present. It's near the sink and has swollen, so a better solution is needed.

With laminate, it's more than possible, it's virtually inevitable to get dings and scratches.

Trendy doesn't really come into it. My answer was in the context of a subjective remark, so a subjective comment is entirely reasonable.

Icky Thwacket ( snipped-for-privacy@it.it) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

Just a quick wipe with a damp washing up cloth seems to work fine on ours...

We found that the area under the draining board and around the taps was building up some limescale - a quick wipe down with some malt vinegar's returned it to new.

OTOH... Solid wood, now *there's* a worktop with high maintenance requirements...

Burlington Bertie ( snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

Ours is three pieces - 900 long, 900x2000 L-shape (one piece) and 1300 with butler sink cutout, two tap holes and draining grooves. All 600 deep, but the 900 long has a 45deg rebate to 400. £1500ish, fitted. The L is joined to the sink piece - the joint is very subtle.

Your L-shape should be do-able in one piece.

Yep, They weigh in at around 400 GBP for a length. They have a several mm of solid resin on the front and about 1mm solid on the top. The plastic is less brittle that the laminate.

It Oxidises, (Turns Rancid). We use cheap sunflower oil to fry bacon etc because it doesn't impart any flavour to the food. But after a few weeks it begins to turn rancid. Just have a niff around the screw cap where it is exposed to oxygen in the air. :-(

I wouldn't want all the worksurfaces in the kitchen dosed with it.

DG

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