Connections to Honeywell DW915 door chime

[williamwright]

Basically you have to connect to the backplate, fix that to the wall, then fit the unit onto the backplate. The terminals are rather peculiar. It seems that you're expected to push 8mm of bared connector into a sort of clip thing. Fair enough, except that the diameter of the bared bit of wire is extremely critical. It's more than likely that the wire you've used just drops out. Suppose you do get it to stay in, but then you want to get it out? The pictogram suggests that you put a screwdriver to the very fragile sliver of plastic that covers the terminal. As far as I can figure out this just breaks the plastic off. Is it me?

Bill

[tabbypurr]

No, if you hear the chime it's someone else. I'm not familiar with it - can you solder them on?

NT

[williamwright]

No, they're tiny and surrounded by plastic. And they have that shiny finish that usually won't take solder. What a pity we can't have choc block type terminals with screws. It's the one thing that spoils an otherwise good product.

Bill

[newshound]

Push-in fittings are getting common in lighting and seem reliable. No current to speak of in a door chime, not really something you expect to maintain. Wire diameter is not normally critical, it pushes past a flat spring strip that is angled to stop it pulling out. Posh ones can be released with a screwdriver, that should not be a destructive operation. You need the right diameter screwdriver, "jewellers" screwdriver sets are useful for this. Conventional ones are better than cross-point.