I remember seeing some skirting in an online store that clipped into metal
'holders' that were screwed into the wall. This allowed you to remove the
skirting easily for decorating / wiring behind it etc etc. I cant for the
life of me remember where I saw it - does anyone know about this stuff, and
where I might be able to buy some ??
: Any ideas where i can get this clip-on stuff ??
The following is from
http://www.diyautomation.co.uk/wiring/installation.html which unfortunately
doesn't give any retailers details but seems to indicate the you're on the
CONCEALING AND DISGUISING CABLES.
Sometimes there is no alternative to running a cable where it will be seen.
There are many ways of "hiding" these cables. Several of the DIY stores sell
a skirting board which is a clip on plastic cover which conceals the cables
run around the base of the room. You can make your own version by removing
the existing skirting board and fixing two battens for the top and bottom of
the skirting board leaving a channel for the cables down the centre. Fix a
thin plywood cover to the battens and add a decorative moulding along the
top edge. Once painted it will look like normal skirting board.
When do skirting boards become trunking?
i.e. how much air gap do you need?
What reason (if any) is there for not running power cables behind skirting
Is it because of the potential heat build up, or because some future owner
may put a nail or a screw through it?
I was planning on running a ring main and an Ethernet LAN behind skirting
boards, but with a reasonable air gap.
I am aware that it is not advisable to have power sockets in low skirting
boards because of the problem with fitting cables out of plugs between the
socket and the floor, but presumably high skirtings are O.K.?
I think it's because in a build, the cables are usually run first-fix
and the skirting boards fitted second fix, by which time plastering has
been done, probably over the cable, and if it's in the line of skirting
board it is very likely to get a nail through it. However, if you can
run the cable 50mm below the surface it's ok, or less than 50mm below
the surface if it's in an earthed metal conduit.
Regarding heat build-up, burying a cable in plaster or clipping it to a
plastered wall doesn't really count as plaster is "conductive" to heat
for the purposes of the calculations.
Don't have them to hand, but I seem to remember that that is qualified;
you can have the cables closer so long as all cables are insulated to
the required level for the one carrying the highest voltage. You can
also get them closer by physically separating them - this is why
office-style "dado"-trunking systems have several different compartments
- the cables may actually be closer together than 50mm, but are
separated by a bit of plastic so it doesn't matter.
Regarding the height of sockets, the overriding legislation appears now
to be the Building Regulations related to access for disabled persons or
persons with limited reach. To comply with this (and compliance is not
always neccessary), all sockets and switches (incl. telephone sockets
and light switches) should be installed in a band between 450mm and
1200mm above the finished floor level - i.e. not closer to the floor
than 450mm and not further away than 1200mm.
Martin Angove: http://www.tridwr.demon.co.uk /
Don't fight technology, live with it: http://www.livtech.co.uk /
Not sure if this answers the question, but I was able to make a
temporary/improvised fixing using the clips that are supplied to
attach kitchen plinths to the legs of cabinets. I had some spare
curtain pole of appropriate diameter which I was able to wedge into
the gap between the floorboards the the bottom of the plaster, clips
went onto the back of the skirting boards ...
A bit of a kludge, but made the room look reasonably "finished" for a
couple of months before doing the final fixing (screws).
julian (at) bellevue-barn (dot) org (dot) uk
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