Cladding a block wall

Some months back I asked about suitable ways of doing this, and received lots of helpful replies and advice. I've now acquired some reclaimed Welsh roofing slates which I plan to use to make the three-course block wall in my garden look a bit less industrial. I don't want to hang them overlapping, as on a roof, but simply flat onto the blocks, brick-like.

I'd welcome suggestions as to the best method of fixing them. A bed of mortar? One of the weatherproof gun-glues? Waterproof tile adhesive? Nailed to battens screwed to the blocks? Another way I haven't thought of?

Many thanks.

Reply to
Bert Coules
Loading thread data ...

If the wall has a capping of some kind, you might get away with tile adhesive but, if water gets behind the slates, you'll need fixings

Reply to
stuart noble

Thanks for that. Would even waterproof tile adhesive be vulnerable?

Reply to
Bert Coules

I'd use 1:1:6

NT

Reply to
meow2222

I used waterproof tile adhesive to fix some brick slips externally to form a soldier course over a RSJ boxed in with cement board (it was Rolled Steel - from the 1930s !). I then pointed them up like bricks (they were about 20 thick). Thinner slate might be more vulnerable and also nearer the frost, but if the capping stops water running down behind the tiles it should be OK. I mean, tiled swimming tools last a few years.

Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

They tend not to freeze up though.

Jonathan

Reply to
Jonathan

Jonathan

- show quoted text - They tend not to freeze up though/q

:-)

Jim K

Reply to
JimK

There's good reason for doing them overlapping. Almost any other way will fail due to frost.

Reply to
harryagain

One of the new generation grab adhesives like Stixall

formatting link

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Thanks to everyone for the replies. Dave, that Stixall sounds ideal, even if it would work out very expensive for even my modestly-sized wall. But could I get away with a dot-and-dab approach, do you think, rather than spreading an overall layer?

Reply to
Bert Coules

/ But could I get away with a dot-and-dab approach, do you think, rather than spreading an overall layer? /q

Most definitely, decent blob evey 4inch say?, probly worth devising some supports to hold the slates in place whilst it goes off, to avoid 'creep' down the wall....

Jim K

Reply to
JimK

That's encouraging, thanks.

Yes, I'd thought of that. It might be that the best approach would actually be to start with the top course (battening underneath it) and working gradually down to ground level.

Reply to
Bert Coules

/Yes, I'd thought of that. It might be that the best approach would actually be to start with the top course (battening underneath it) and working gradually down to ground level/q

Could do but may be worth trying to 'tile' it? Doing 2nd row up resting on a temp batten, and sorting some suitable temp spacers for between slates, you'd still have to somehow hold them against the wall in position whilst the glue goes off....

Jim K

Reply to
JimK

Yes, that sounds sensible, thanks.

Depending on how instant the grab of the adhesive is, I suppose. But propping a single length of timber against each slate should be perfectly workable if it proves necessary. The slates are arriving on Monday: I'll try a few tests.

Reply to
Bert Coules

4" spaced blobs holding slates on an exterior wall? I detect a sense of humour.

the usual approach should work fine.

However I can't help thinking nailed overlapping slates would have a much better chance of long term survival.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

/ I'd use 1:1:6/q

Mmm a weak sand lime cement mix on a vertical application of dissimilar materials ?

Well I suppose if you are short of things to re-do.....

Jim K

Reply to
JimK

/ Almost any other way will fail due to frost./q

Mmm that well known ancient roofing material usually laid with roughly 3/4 edges exposed to all the elements for 100s of years is suddenly going to 'fail' because it's hung vertically.......

Jim K

Reply to
JimK

? 2014?11?7????UTC+

8??8?49?51??Bert Coules? ????

Glad to share you my part-time job I'm a senior undergraduate students in Toronto. I like Miami's sunbath, and something new about Apple. Reviewing app on my iPad and iPhone is one of m y part-time jobs. I often download some new apps on bestreviewapp, and give my review on iTunes to earn money. I need to buy a paid app in front, and complete the review with money back. Every day I could get $5 more or less. What's more important is to try the up-to-date apps FREE. As some of them are really nice, I'd like to help th e developers to find bugs and update with some function I need. I think it' s a kind of emotion like you and your sweet Teddy bear. Together with each other, and feel happy for its good looking with my little attempts. No fidd ling with my apple devices, I've using them. Let's hit it :

formatting link

Reply to
lucia

If both surfaces are dry, you might be better off with a solvent based adhesive such as Gripfil Original. If not, then stick to the normal water based tile adhesive, which is not affected by a bit of damp. To stop the slates sliding down the wall, start at the bottom :-)

Whatever you do, you need to have something on top of the wall to shed rainwater, even if it's only angled mortar (ridge tiles maybe?). There will be gaps behind the slates, and you def need to keep the rain out of there

Reply to
stuart noble

shaking head

Reply to
meow2222

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.