Cladding a block wall

If the wall has a capping of some kind, you might get away with tile adhesive but, if water gets behind the slates, you'll need fixings

Thanks for that. Would even waterproof tile adhesive be vulnerable?

I'd use 1:1:6

NT

I used waterproof tile adhesive to fix some brick slips externally to form a soldier course over a RSJ boxed in with cement board (it was Rolled Steel - from the 1930s !). I then pointed them up like bricks (they were about 20 thick). Thinner slate might be more vulnerable and also nearer the frost, but if the capping stops water running down behind the tiles it should be OK. I mean, tiled swimming tools last a few years.

Simon.

They tend not to freeze up though.

Jonathan

Jonathan

- show quoted text - They tend not to freeze up though/q

:-)

Jim K

There's good reason for doing them overlapping. Almost any other way will fail due to frost.

One of the new generation grab adhesives like Stixall

Thanks to everyone for the replies. Dave, that Stixall sounds ideal, even if it would work out very expensive for even my modestly-sized wall. But could I get away with a dot-and-dab approach, do you think, rather than spreading an overall layer?

/ But could I get away with a dot-and-dab approach, do you think, rather than spreading an overall layer? /q

Most definitely, decent blob evey 4inch say?, probly worth devising some supports to hold the slates in place whilst it goes off, to avoid 'creep' down the wall....

Jim K

That's encouraging, thanks.

Yes, I'd thought of that. It might be that the best approach would actually be to start with the top course (battening underneath it) and working gradually down to ground level.

/Yes, I'd thought of that. It might be that the best approach would actually be to start with the top course (battening underneath it) and working gradually down to ground level/q

Could do but may be worth trying to 'tile' it? Doing 2nd row up resting on a temp batten, and sorting some suitable temp spacers for between slates, you'd still have to somehow hold them against the wall in position whilst the glue goes off....

Jim K

Yes, that sounds sensible, thanks.

Depending on how instant the grab of the adhesive is, I suppose. But propping a single length of timber against each slate should be perfectly workable if it proves necessary. The slates are arriving on Monday: I'll try a few tests.

the usual approach should work fine.

However I can't help thinking nailed overlapping slates would have a much better chance of long term survival.

NT

/ I'd use 1:1:6/q

Mmm a weak sand lime cement mix on a vertical application of dissimilar materials ?

Well I suppose if you are short of things to re-do.....

Jim K

/ Almost any other way will fail due to frost./q

Mmm that well known ancient roofing material usually laid with roughly 3/4 edges exposed to all the elements for 100s of years is suddenly going to 'fail' because it's hung vertically.......

Jim K

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If both surfaces are dry, you might be better off with a solvent based adhesive such as Gripfil Original. If not, then stick to the normal water based tile adhesive, which is not affected by a bit of damp. To stop the slates sliding down the wall, start at the bottom :-)

Whatever you do, you need to have something on top of the wall to shed rainwater, even if it's only angled mortar (ridge tiles maybe?). There will be gaps behind the slates, and you def need to keep the rain out of there

shaking head