I've had various drills over the years without problems as I recall (apart from never being able to find chuck keys before hand tightened chucks).
Currently my cordless is a Ryobi CDI-1801 18.0v
However much I tighten the chuck by hand bits still slip at times. Any tips (apart from replacing the drill)?
TIA for any ideas.
Completely separate. I tend to scrape screws across a soft bar of soap before use to reduce friction as they go in. I saw a thread fairly recently where somebody suggested something better. Can someone remind me please?
TIA again
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C
Cicero
================================================
Replace the chuck if worn out.
Vaseline (Petroleum jelly) for threads.
Cic.
D
David in Normandy
I've had similar problems and found that "washing" the chuck out with several squirts of WD40 can sometimes help. You can end up with all manner of fine debris building up in the chuck especially if you do any masonry holes and this sometimes prevents the chuck from tightening fully on the drill bits or from opening the chuck fully. Worth a try.
T
Tim Lamb
In message , Invisible Man writes
Pay more for your drill bits and get tempered shanks?
My old maths master recommended lanolin dipped screws for boat building.
regards
U
Usenet Nutter
Would silicon spray do ?
A
Andy Dingley
Candle wax rather than soap, as soap encourages rust (and hellish iron stain on oak!) in the future.
Candles should be the stump of some decent quality hippie stuff, ideally scented, as that's an indication they're actually paraffin wax (or beeswax). If you use cheapies (esp from Ikea, esp white ones with a coloured overdip, esp. tealights) they're made from cheaper stearin instead of parafiin wax. This is too hard and tends to fall off your screws before you've inserted them.
A
Andy Dingley
Better drill: chuck quality does vary, and it's one of the things that improves on better (more expensive) drills. Roehm is usually OK, but Ryobi's genius is in value engineering down to the point where it still works, but it doesn't half piss you off while you're using it.
Better chuck. There are two designs of these, one-handed and two- handed mechanisms. One-handed are apparently better, but I'd have to find the 2-year old(?) copy of Fine Woodworking that had an excellent review article on this. Again, more money gets you th egood stuff.
Straight jaws. Don't bounce the drill on its nose.
Clean jaws. Don't fill the chuck with grit. If you have and it's an old keyed Jacobs, you can strip it and clean it, re-packing with grease. If it's modern, you can't practically do this. If it's known to be full of grit, then flush it clean with carb cleaner / parts washer / ultrasonic tank and then re-pack it with Finishline XC aerosol bike chain lube (solvent loaded, so it goes in, then turns sticky and greasy). Finishline XC is one of the best waterproof sprayable lubes I've found and I use it everywhere - good for most locks too, expecially levers or padlocks. Note that greasing a modern keyless chuck can ruin it - some parts rely on having friction - so this is a bit of a last resort.
Hex shanks rather than round shanks. Apparently that helps, if the chuck is marginal.
Round shanks. If you've spun a drill and raised a burr, then file it off.
Soft, grippable shanks. Hard shanks (weird drills, cheap golden drills) are inelastic, thus hard to grip.
J
John Rumm
One comment worth mentioning on one handed (and I agree they are noticeably better), is you can't retrofit a one handed chuck to a drill not designed for it, since the drill must have an automatic armature lock. Otherwise the shaft would just turn when you tighten the chuck.
I
Invisible Man
Many thanks to all who have replied. I will clean up the chuck and if not replace it.
N
NT
Many drills work that way, and seem to work ok with no armature lock. You get more tightening force if you a) set the drill to low speed gearing b) yank it tight quickly
not really upto masony hammer drilling though, for which a lot more tightness is needed. Dont do a whole lot of that now though, due to sds.
If you dont get the chuck sorted, just replace it, only a fiver.
NT
T
The Medway Handyman
Wahoo! Another use for the wonder product!
R
R
Makes superb shine on Horses coats too before show....
B
Bob Eager
It's a good thing that WD40 isn't a lubricant, or it might slip even more badly ! :-)
D
Dave
How did you find that out, before the horse kicked you, because of the smell? :-)
Dave
R
R
Well known in the 'orsey word sunbeam
T
The Medway Handyman
And I have to ask the question - has anyone ever heard a horse squeaking?
No.
Thus proving beyond any doubt that WD40 is a lubricant.
D
David in Normandy
What do you call a foal with a sore throat? . . . . . . . . . . . . ... a little horse.
(I'll get my coat)
R
Rod
A number of years ago a colleague kept going on about his wife's horse have a squeaky penis. (Couldn't decide how much of a wind up it was.) Never heard him mention WD40 though.
G
Grimly Curmudgeon
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember Rod saying something like:
Was he French? Perhaps referring to his wife's arse and its noisy entrance.
R
Rod
I think it was more to do with this:
Which is far more than I ever wanted to know about the subject.
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