Are you saying a Li-Ion one - which starts off with less capacity - is going to be fine after 6 months, like for like? I'd say most Li-Ion jump start packs ain't got the finest either, by the price.
Whilst it may start off with less Ah capacity, it may well have a greater cold cranking current so more likely to start a car, assuming it's willing to start easily.
Yes.
But I'm not sure they need to, given what sort of CCA even low spec ones can output.
If you want a bit of a rambling redneck overview of a LA V Li pack (all be they way different prices):
Cold cranking is the one to look for. Looking at specs for these Li-Ion packs, they seem to do anything other than quote in the same way as you'd expect with a lead acid battery. I'm sure it's not a problem with a small engine, but can be if looking for one which will cope with a bigger one and maybe diesel.
But for how long? They all seem to be much lower capacity than the older lead acid jump packs. Not a problem if the engine starts instantly, but this may not be the case with an engine where a start was attempted with a very low battery and failed - hence needing the jump start.
+1
That's been my experience.
I'm not sure Dave has ever actually played with one of these Lithium (poly, not Ion?) jump-starter packs as then I think he would 'get it' easier. ;-)
You go to a car, turn the key and you just see dim dashboard lights and the starter solenoid not even pulling in.
You take the lithium pack *out of your pocket*, clip it on the battery, get back in the car and turn the key and see fully bright dash lights. You then turn the key and hear the engine spinning over 'faster' than normal and (if it's ok), starting on the button. ;-)
You go back round to the battery, unclip it (it's not been taking any charge away from the main battery at any time) and put it back in your pocket. ;-)
6 months later you find you need to repeat the process, so you take the pack out of your glove compartment and start another car ... without having to re-charge or even top up the pack from last time.I have done pretty well all the above with the Lithium pack I was given by my local motorcycle shop (I think they were selling them for £39 or so) and started what became stepdaughters Seat Ibiza several times whilst it was parked up before she took it on (and it had a fault that flattened the battery every 3 days or so ... and wasn't really being charged in between).
I walked there with the Lithium battery in my pocket knowing that my mate had his big jumper battery on a trolley in the garage opposite, should I need it. I didn't. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
Yup.
Are they Li-Ion though? Mine is Li-Po?
If you don't know they are actually Li-Ion I'd just call them 'lithium' fir these purposes.
As mentioned elsewhere, would you count an 1800 diesel in a Transit Connect that wouldn't even start to crank it over to be a suitable test? If so, my cheapo (well, free to me) Lithium pack started it easily. ;-)
Long enough to start a car that won't on it's own (probably several times on one charge)?
Yes, but they aren't the same thing so you can't easily compare that particular value. It's like trying to compare the performance of an old design 1300 with a modern, fuel injected and turbo'd 1300.
Nope, still not really a problem, as long as it isn't 'too' long.
I would say my (pocket sized) battery can spin an engine over faster and as long as any portable LA based 'Jump start pack' I've ever owned did. The big difference is I can't get the old one in my pocket and the battery is usually shot by the time I dug it out to use again (and so generally using an old car battery I've kept and some std jump leads). Now, part of that may well have been because they were only 'cheap' packs (often on special from the local Car Parts place or Maplin etc (but still with a 17AH sealed LA battery in it where the spec suggests it was never meant for a SLI role).
Cheers, T i m
I've got one. But it doesn't give maximum starting amps - only so called maximum amps. And that figure doesn't relate to the amps my starter takes, as that is less - yet it wouldn't spin the engine.
But I bought it as a power pack for other things, so not wasted.
OK ...
Yes, some of the cheaper ones (especially) are a bit vague that way.
Ok.
And was sold as a jump starter pack?
But it came with jumper cable type crock clips etc?
Cheers, T i m
He'd need a reasonably meaty one for the Rover. The other thing to check is that the croc clips are making good contact. I had mine out for the petrol topper the other day and nothing much happened, then I jiggled the croc clips and away it went.
You could be right, depending on the gearing / efficiency of the starter etc.
The 1.4i Astra was always a 'lazy starter' but always seemed to start. The kitcar (1.3 Mk2 Escort) is normally spins over pretty quickly but takes a time to fire up (especially if it's been left for a while). The 2L Sierra was something inbetween and the Rover 218 SD seemed to fire up before it had even turned over once!
Good point (although I'm sure Dave would have that covered).
Yeah, it really can depend of several things, the general level of oxide or whatever typically builds up on the terminal clamps, the shape / sharpness of the 'teeth' on the clips, the strength of the springs and how / where (on the clamp / terminal bolt or the meat of the terminal itself if the non-pillar type) or the you have fitted them.
Cheers, T i m
There is a Youtube video showing cranking when these boosters have been refrigerated down to 0C
With a lithium based booster on the first turn of the key little happens, the same with the second turn of the key but these two operations have generated some heat within the battery and subsequently the engine cranks with relative ease.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.