I had a cheap one of these a few years ago and found it generally disappointing. I've got a use for one now and was looking at these:
TIA
Do you actually need the 240v facility? I can't think when I'd ever use it. It adds considerably to the price - a basic jump start pack with the same battery capacity and compressor costs about 40 quid.
Not particularly although it would be convenient to have. My concern about the "budget" models is whether they have very cheap batteries and whether the more serious ones will last longer.
I want it for a stables where there is no mains power. I have a small genny but if you just want a limited amount of mains this would save getting it out and firing it up. Wouldn't normally be jump starting big vehicles but I have a ride-on mower which flattens its battery if you forget to disconnect it after use.
What are the specs of the lead acids in thm? That's what matters most.
NT
Most seem to be the same 18 amp.hr. The claims about the current they deliver may vary. However, a battery that size won't do many jump starts at maximum power before sufferening damage IMHO. Of course it will depend on the actual state of the 'flat' battery, the size of the engine and the temperature etc as to how much current is needed.
That's exactly why I was looking for some feedback. Didn't think to check Amazon before posting, and there are quite a few on there including this one, which mostly gets good reviews.
I doubt anyone with sense would use such a thing for 'business'. A second decent ordinary battery and a set of jump leads would be the way to go.
However, I can see the OP's point in asking for feedback, as the quality of all types of batteries can vary dramatically.
18AH is the common size used, and the minimum which is at all viable. (There are smaller ones around, and in the small print you'll find some words to the effect "for cars up to 800cc" ;-)
A bigger problem is that many of these 18AH batteries are fakes, and have smaller ones inside them. Somewhere on YouTube is a video of someone disecting a Maplin one, and the 18AH battery actually contained a 7AH battery and plastic padding. It's very easy to tell just by weighing the battery - the fakes are much lighter.
Also, I have noticed a reduction in quality of other parts, such as the tyre valve coupler on some recent ones, to the point where it's unlikely to last more than about two uses before falling to bits. I have one I bought from CPC many years ago, and because it was quite good overall quality, I decided to replace the battery in it when it died, even though buying a whole new unit would have been cheaper. I replaced it with a deep discharge one. The original wasn't, but it was a good make, which I suspect is less likely today.
Ring, hum I'd be cautious. I don't think I come across anything from Ring that is above average in quality.
Would be a limited amout of mains power as well from an 18AHr battery. 30 mins at a couple of hundred watts if that. I've not done the sums but my UPS with 7AHr batteries struggles to make 10 mins at
200-300W.
Why not get one of the solar cell "battery saver" things. I have one for the genset just to counter the self discharge. Which reminds me I noticed when getting the mower out for the first time this year it's not connected ATM...
Unless you have a daughter that's been thrown out of the AA for calling them out to her works car par because she's left the lights on all day.
Bill
Because it is parked in the shade, in any case I suspect the drain is too much (maybe the generator?)
Thanks, noted. Never used their stuff.
Dunno lawn mowers, but on a car alternator if a rectifier diode fails short circuit (the most common failure mode) it will draw considerable current with the engine stopped. But since they are three phase, can still charge the battery reasonably well.
It can, but since these things generally inhabit a niche of minimal use and tough price competition, I doubt the op would find anything above the cheapest type of battery in the various low end brands.
Probably more useful to go get a used car battery, and dont let it go flat.
NT
The one in my Lidl one is very good. And it was cheap as chips. Sadly, at this end of the market price isn't a guide.
A jump start pack is very convenient - you can carry it with one hand, which you can't always with a normal car battery and a pair of jump leads. They have spill proof batteries too. Other useful think on mine is the on/off switch.
My small 12 x 4" roughly solar battery saver panel sits in a north facing window. It might get the sun in the next 15 minutes (I've just looked) but even then it'll be a the shadow of some birch trees. Sunset is about 2100 or maybe later ATM.
It still produces enough to keep the battery OK, it would do better if I disconnected the pretty blue flashing LED...
I'd expect the ignition switch to disconnect everything. How quickly does the battery die?
On cars the ignition switch does not usually disconnect the alternator, it relies on the diodes being OK. And of course it doesn't disconnect the starter or solenoid.
I've only just got it, and have been fixing mechanical problems in the drive train. I'll get a meter on it and investigate when I've sorted out the cutter. But the bloke I bought it off said you need to disconnect the battery, and it came with "quick disconnect" clips so I've no reason to doubt him.
This hasn't been true for years.
It never has. It has never disconnected the starter or the lights. Incidentally when the alternator diodes went in my wife's car the cable to the alternator burnt through.
Bill
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