Hi Guys and Gals
I will shortly be buying 30 oak or maybe birch railway sleepers of which approx 20 will be cut into 3 sections. Hand sawing sounds like too hard work, so if I bought a chainsaw would one of the cheaper models be good enough do you think? Sleeper size is 10" x 6" There is one like this I can get for £50.
T.I.A
If it's only for the one job then it will probably cost less than =A350 to hire a proper one *and* you get all the safety gear.
MBQ
It'll manage those with no problem and it'll also be a reasonably safe job to do with a chainsaw if you've never used one before.
Do read all the safety information you can about using chainsaws before doing it though, you have to filter this information a bit because it nearly all relates to petrol chainsaws but most of it is relevant.
As an 'amateur' who used a chainsaw initially for cutting logs (basically similar to what you want to do) and slowly graduated to felling small trees and then larger trees I'd say the most important things when using a chainsaw as you are going to do are:-
Get the sleeper at a comfortable height to cut (two or three feet off the ground probably), make sure that it can't move and make sure it won't pinch the bar as you cut through it.
Hold the chainsaw firmly as it's designed to be held, don't be frightened of it. Many/most chainsaw accidents are caused by the chainsaw being dropped or getting away from your firm grip.
Use a proper helmet with a mesh mask.
As regards other protective clothing that's further down the priority list to my mind. For log and similar cutting a chainsaw is a pretty safe tool to use as long as you are careful - as you should be with any power tool.
Don't you need a chainsaw licence in order to hire one these days?
sponix
I was waiting for that one;-)
I've hired one in the past and there are still no end of references to hiring them on Google, none of the ones I checked mentions the need for a licence.
Maybe required for certain larger types/sizes?
MBQ
And, if you're going to cut notches out of the sides/edges of the sleeper to make it fit around things, then don't be tempted to try and poke the tip of the saw in the sleeper, after you've made your initial straight in cuts. Use a big hammer, and maybe a chisel if needed, to knock the piece out. You might also need the hammer and chisel if you need to cut a sleeper length ways. The saw is easily gripped in a long cut, so the use of a wedge of some kind is handy to hold the cut open as you move along.
Be safe, please.
Hi Steve
I just bought a B&Q electric chain saw for about £45 to cut up a tree trunk. It would work a treat on 10 x 6 sleepers. Easy to use, performed well. I'd notch the underside first to avoid splintering then cut through from the top.
Dave
But isn't there a fair chance that old sleepers may have hidden bits of metal embedded in them?
David
Yes, a good chance. I ruined a chainsaw blade doing this years ago.
If they aren't old, they aren't sleepers.
Bill
Possibly, the thought hadn't occurred to me that they might be used sleepers. Even so it's not so much dangerous as a very quick way of making the chain blunt if you hit something metal.
Is that the Chris Green who used to run network south-east;?.
What U doin selling old sleepers;)...
I have a chainsaw, but for this I use my circular saw, and cut all 4 side, it left about 2 square inches in the middle to do by hand.
A chanisaw and any dirt, embeded nails = one expensive mess.
If they are new wood, most suppliers will cut them down.
Rick
Hmmm. That's not a bad idea.... in fact I may go for it At the moment I don't know weather I will be getting new or old. The supplier can cut for me.... at £4 a cut x 40 cuts, too expensive.
O/poster
No. There's another one who is a BBC (I think) reporter and I quite regularly see others.
:-)
The chain can bust on a metal piece and come flying off - causin
terrible damage if it hits you. My brother is a surgeon and once ha to sow an arm back together - it was almost severe
-- cantorthomas
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