What value is this this Cap,its marked "104K" and is on the bridge rectifier side of power supply of a portable TV.
Its leaky as noticable on the PCB
Thanks.
What value is this this Cap,its marked "104K" and is on the bridge rectifier side of power supply of a portable TV.
Its leaky as noticable on the PCB
Thanks.
Hah! its ok I found its value...
Its 100,000pF
Means 10 followed by 4 zeros pF, so 100,000pF or 100nF. K means tolerance is +/- 10%.
In message , George writes
10 with 4 following "0"s in pico farads => 100nF prollyalthough capacitor colour codes are historically inconsistent
10 with four zeros pico, so 100000 picoF/ 100nF. Not sure of the K, but I think it is probably the temperature coefficient.
.1uF
Unusual for a ceramic (no liquid to leak)
Geo
Sorry for the high definition.
oops! wrong value given,its a '102k' which will be 1000Pf 10%
No sign of that happend MrBurns and I would have been informed buy the guy if it did.
By the by I've come up with an ingenious idea that suit other people lie me who repair anything electronic...
My peepers are not up to scratch anymore when it comes to repairing electronic circuit boards and components ie dry joints are sometimes hard to detect PCB tracking fractures ect ect so I am using one of the wireless cameras I bought of ebay which the reciever is connected to a good composite monitor and as the camera can get real close up it reveals the finer dry joints or circuit tracking fractures the naked eye cannot without the help of a magnifier.
So what do think about that? :-)
What does the underside tracks look like.
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Dunno? have not vetured that far yet until I aquire the replacement cap,no sense in making work for meself till I have the cap ie they're a pain in the backside removing TV circuit boards especially when its a combo video/TV. :-(
Not bad...but two dimensional (you lose the stereoscopic effect so no depth perception).
(not that I have stereo vision any more anyway, and surgeons seem to manage)
That was my thought as well. Perhaps a dry joint on t'otherside.
as the camera is attached to a plastic rod and it can get in most inaccessible areas of the chassis whilst the board is in situ. A bright led is attached to the camera body for lighting the way. ;-)
So he wasn't watching when the cat was caught short while draped over the back of the set...
Geo
I would have thought the cat would have gone Pssst! instead of Purrrr! :-)
Don't know 'why' it's failed - could be the cap itself or 'something else' - but whatever the reason it managed to get very hot before it failed - the 'deposit' on the board looks like boiled copper from the component lead.
You may find that there are burnt / fused tracks on the underside of the board..... in which case the blown up capacitor may be the least of your problems
Also - the cross-hatching on the PCB indicates (I think) areas which are 'live' and can bite - so take care....
Good luck Adrian
Ingenious, but rather clumsy and expensive for a magnifying glass! Simpler options are supermarket reading glasses (strong, +3.0) or a jeweller's loupe.
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