Candy Circuit Diagram

[Sam Farrell]

I have a Candy Tumble Dryer Model CC2-17. It doesn't heat up, but I'm pretty sure I could fix it if I had a circuit diagram. Anyone got any ideas where I can get hold of one please ?

Many thanks

Sam

[Scott M]

If you've got a testmeter, these things are usually self explanatory. Find the element, remove terminals and check for continuity as that's the most likely failure point.

(In washer-dryers the next point is wiring stretch or torn as it leaps from body to drum.)

Chafed wiring next (tho this usually takes the trip out.)

[Harry Bloomfield]

or even a thermal trip which needs resetting.

[Skipweasel]

No mention of one on the handbook for that model.

[Sam Farrell]

This is a condensing type which has got an internal printed circuit board. The old fashioned ones I can figure out, one timer switch, one heater and a thermal overload {maybe}. This one uses damn modern technology and an array of leds. Too darn clever for its own good.

[Scott M]

If the thing generally functions and motors turn and LEDs light up, chances are it's something external to the PCB.

[the_constructor]

We had an Hotpoint condenser drier and there were some heat sensors in the back panel where the drum fan was. We were told by the engineer that if you turn the drier off whilst it was in the drying cycle before it went into the

10 cooling off period before machine stopped, then this would cause these heat sensors to blow.

A figure of £35 just for the parts was enough for us to watch what we did after that.

Jim

[Harry Bloomfield]

Ours did all that, yet it would fail at a random point in the cycle with no error codes offered - it was still a faulty PCB.

[Harry Bloomfield]

the_constructor brought next idea :

Been there, done that - if you are in the know, they are resetable, they do not 'blow' they just simply trip. They are made so you cannot reset them.

In the centre of the thermal trip, on the plastic side, is a tiny dimple. If you carefully drill a hole there of around 1 or 1.5mm - so the drill doesn't go tearing through to the bi-metal disk under the hole, then simply press gently with a watchmakers screwdriver/ paper-clip or similar, the trip will click and reset. The difference between those trips and the resetable type, is only the lack of the hole and a short bit of T shaped plastic - plus of course the £20 it costs to buy a new one.

[Tabby]

Should be possible to find out which bit is malfunctioning without a cct diag. Start by testing the operation of all the main bits, narrow it down.

NT